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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall H cylinder head

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SCK

08-31-2005 16:52:27




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My Dad has a '40 Farmall H. I restored it 2 yrs ago. In Sept '04 it started to run rough and we found the no.1 exhaust valve stuck open. I took the head to alocal repair shop whose owner is an avid farmall guru and had it repaired. He told me that the valves had gotten rusty. I checked the head gasket over and couldn't find any signs of leaking. So I took the engine down the rest of the way and had the block checked for cracks and leaks just as I had done the year before when I originally restored it. Last week I went over to my Dad's and he told me it was running rough again. He also told me that he changed the plugs and wires and it didn't help. Out of curiousity I pulled the valve cover and found the no.1 exhaust valve stuck open again. I'm going to pull the head again but am lost on why we are having this problem. I could understand it if the tractor sat for long periods of time not running, but this tractor gets run frequently.
Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

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Stan(VA).

09-01-2005 05:31:28




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 Re: Farmall H cylinder head in reply to SCK, 08-31-2005 16:52:27  
SCK,
One thing I'd recommend to check (before pulling the head again) is your rocker arm side clearance. I had a similar problem on my Super H, it burned #2 or #3 exhaust valve, and turned out to be lack of clearance between the rocker arm, center oil sleeve, and one of the lever brackets. The trick was it didn't show up until you torqued the whole rocker arm assy down.

For #1, it would be between the rocker arm, the lever bracket, and the expansion plug or snap ring (whichever is on that end). I would turn the motor to TDC on that cyl, and verify that you can easily rock the arm enough to feel the .020 clearance with your finger. On mine the rocker would move around fine until the shaft was torqed down, then got very difficult to move the arm. It was just enough that the valve would open and close, but as the engine got hot, and clearance went to it's min, the valve wouldn't close all the way.

If you have a simialr problem, I had to disassemble the rock shaft and mill down that rocker arm bushing a little on the side to open up the clearance then the valve worked fine, and doesn't require pulling the head again ;)
Just a thought,
Stan(VA).

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El Toro

08-31-2005 18:43:50




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 Re: Farmall H cylinder head in reply to SCK, 08-31-2005 16:52:27  
I would check that valve guide, it may be a tad too snug. I would check that valve spring too see if it is weak. The spring should have a free length of 2.281" (2 9/32"). It should take
81 to 89 lbs. to compress the spring to 1.391"
(1 25/64"). Hal



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RustyFarmall

08-31-2005 17:56:40




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 Re: Farmall H cylinder head in reply to SCK, 08-31-2005 16:52:27  
Is it getting oil up to the top?



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SCK

08-31-2005 18:19:44




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 Re: Farmall H cylinder head in reply to RustyFarmall, 08-31-2005 17:56:40  
yes it is.



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Janicholson

08-31-2005 18:59:20




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 Re: Farmall H cylinder head in reply to SCK, 08-31-2005 18:19:44  
Pulling the head to get at the valve may be needed. The stem could be warped, and or the guide gunky or warped. Running a guide reamer down it would be a good idea .0015-.002 bigger than the stem. If found to be gunky, I'd clsan all of them, and put Perfect Circle (or Equivalent) metering style seals on. (simple and regulates flow correctly).
Good luck,
JimN



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