Super A to Super C engine block conversion

On another note, I fail to see the benefit, of changing these engines to 3-1/8 or 3-1/4. You see folks discussing trying to get more mower from one of these C-113 or C-123 engines, by various arrangements of bore, stroke and type of pistons. I have a one point fast hitch field cultivator with modern S tines, 17 shanks. If you let that thing down it will stop any of these tractors. I know it would stop a SC, 200 or 230 as well. I have gauge wheels on this cultivator and can see little difference whather I hook my Super A, 130 or 140 on front. Gauge wheels were required as tractor wheels going through the slightest hollow would stop the tractor. Yes the little Super A with it's 3" bore will lug this cultivator just as well as the others. By the way I know my tractors are all factory specs.

I think if I really wanted to upgrade a Super C, I would go all the way to C-135 specs. I have used my brothers 230 some and in my opinion these tractors just don't have enough engine for the heavier housing and that 36" wheel. My dad did business with a guy that speciaslized in rebuilding Farmall tractors back in the 50s & 60s. He always said these C-113 and C-123 worked fine and gave great hours of servive between rebuilds in the offset tractors with 24" wheels. Guys would come in for engine rebuilds on C, SC, 200 and 230, and they would have the crap beat out of them. by those bigger tires and the extra weight.

Your block in the C should be 251069, and 3-1/8 pistons just means that it has had an overbore kit installed somewhere in it's past (unless you happen to be between serial numbers 48000-48499, in which case you better not let me know or I will dog you until you strip it down and get me measurements on everything so I can learn a little more about what they did on that block of 500). ;) ;)
Stan(VA).