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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Generator --- Alternator

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Farmall_Ryan

10-13-2005 19:23:27




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The generator on my M has kicked the bucket. I do a fair amount of electric motor repair so I figured I"d take it apart and fix it. After dis-assembling and doing some testing I found that the armature coils have shorted. Thats one repair I don"t do on my own. I"m trying to decide on the best replacement method to follow. Here are the options I see:

1. Replacement armature for 6V Gen. Price $96
2. 6V Pos. ground Alt. Price $97
3. 12V Neg. Gnd. Alt. w/ 12V bulbs, 12V battery Price $$$

Option 1 would be the simplest and still original, but it may be the least reliable due to other old parts on the generator...

Option 2 would be fairly simple other than some bracket making and wouldn"t require new, battery and bulbs...

Option 3 would be more expensive and time consuming to install, but it would be all new and the tractor would start better on the 12V...

*Right now the tractor is sluggish starting when cold with a fully charged 6V battery w/ 2 gauge new cable and all good connections.

What would you go with?

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El Toro

10-14-2005 11:42:10




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Farmall_Ryan, 10-13-2005 19:23:27  
I would go with option No2, I've had good luck with generators and alternators, may have needed
brushes and bearings during 100K miles. Just be extra careful when jump starting with an alternator. You can make your own battery heavy duty cables at just the right length and solder spades on the ends. Hal
PS: I use the miltary lead type battery connectors
on the battery posts. Had boxes of them at a surplus sale. Now you need to go to FT Meade for the sales.

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John T

10-14-2005 08:08:55




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Farmall_Ryan, 10-13-2005 19:23:27  
I gotta cast my vote in favor of repairing the 6 volt Generator.

1) With a new armature and since youre in there anyway, its fairly cheap to replace any needed brushes or bushings WHEREY YOU SHOULD GET YEARS OF TROUBLE FREE PERFORMANCE privided you keep the brush hold down spring assemblys clean n free.

2) That way you dont have to buy or convert to all that 12 volt stuff and change polarity and have that ugly out of place looking dorky alternator n jury rigged brackets etc etc.

On that M especially, I would use 00 gauge Battery n Starter n Ground cables and have the highest rated heavy duty battery that will physically fit into the space.

Thats my story n Im stickin to it lol

Take care n God Bless yall

John T

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chadd

10-14-2005 05:34:28




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Farmall_Ryan, 10-13-2005 19:23:27  
I guess my experiences are unusual, but I would go with the generator setup. We have a W6 and an M both with 6V positive ground. We also have an 806 that was converted to a one-wire alternator and a 966 with a three-wire alternator. We end up taking those entire alternators in every 3-4 years to be rebuilt because they stop charging. Both our M and W6 are on the original generators and only require occasional requlator changes. Either way would work, its up to you. Also, try 0/1 cable, it can make a big difference in starter speed if you stay with 6V.

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Dave in CT

10-14-2005 00:18:00




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Farmall_Ryan, 10-13-2005 19:23:27  
I'd go with the 12V Alt. 10SI Delco-Remy '1 wire' Alts start at around $50 + shipping on ebay. This may be comparable to what you'd pay at NAPA. If you go this route, I'd go with a 3-wire setup. They're not that much harder to wire and kick in the charging at lower RPMs.



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Andrew Z

10-14-2005 13:54:01




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Dave in CT, 10-14-2005 00:18:00  
Dave, does that alternator fit under the H's hood. With the one I got on mine there no way I can close the hood.
Thanks Andrew



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Dave in CT

10-14-2005 16:07:52




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Andrew Z , 10-14-2005 13:54:01  
I didn't mount the one on my '47 H but it is a 10SI, clock-positioned so the two spade connectors that come out the side are pointed down. It's a snug fit - I'd tell you the belt length but it's raining pretty hard right now. I could have talked about the toyota, etc. alternator options - search the archives for testaments about them - they're smaller and provide a more comfortable fit under the hood. I'll probably stay with the 10SI as so many of them were made. It'll be a long time before parts and replacements will be unavailable.

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Andrew Z

10-14-2005 19:19:47




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Dave in CT, 10-14-2005 16:07:52  
Thanks Dave Andrew



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McDiesel

10-13-2005 21:58:24




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Farmall_Ryan, 10-13-2005 19:23:27  
Ryan I agree with Bob. I have option 3 on my SMTA, 300, 450D and the 650D and I can tell you that is the best money I'v ever spent on them tractors. I do show the SMTA and the 450D this way to. All of the tractors are workers. Keith



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Bob M

10-13-2005 19:33:57




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 Re: Generator --- Alternator in reply to Farmall_Ryan, 10-13-2005 19:23:27  
The answer is "it depends"!

Is your tractor a worker? If so then there's absolutely no question - go with the 12 volt alternator. Once the initial investment is made you will then enjoy low maintenance, bright lights and reliable starting for many years. (And FWIW a 12 volt alternator, battery, lamps and ballast resistor will total only bit over $100 or so)

However if your tractor is a trailer queen - only runs on and off a trailer for show or parade - then keep it original and fix the 6 volt generator.

Unfortunately I cannot think of any good argument in favor of the 6 volt positive ground alternator!

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