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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start

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Flatland Farmal

11-01-2005 17:43:56




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First of all I have ruled out fuel, my problem is spark. I replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotor, and the condenser. Initially I pulled a spark plug from the head and grounded it to check the spark. None. I took a meter and checked the continuity from the points all the way to the battery including the resistor. In a desperate attempt, I stuck a screwdriver in the spark plug wire and grabbed the metal shank while my wife turned the key. Kind of figured this was her chance to get even for the stupid thing I would probably do in the future. Needless to say she was deeply dissapointed. Thank God! I even took the wire from the switch (the one that goes to the coil via the resistor) and touched it to the positive side of the battery while the points were exposed to see if there was spark while cranking the starter. Still nothing. Ireally like my Farmall, but I'm so frustrated I could spit nails. Can someone tell me what I must have missed?

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old

11-01-2005 19:52:31




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 17:43:56  
Look the points over real good, I"ve seen times when a screw etc in there is shorting out and it will drive you crazy. Had that happen to me this summer but don"t remember which tractor it was on. I"ve probably put in 5-10 sets of points just this summer.



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Flatland Farmall

11-01-2005 19:58:25




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to old, 11-01-2005 19:52:31  
Will do. Hate to mess with them, what is the gap setting for the points anyway?



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El Toro

11-02-2005 06:08:08




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 19:58:25  
.020" for a distributor and .013 for a mag. Hal



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RustyFarmall

11-02-2005 04:37:46




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 19:58:25  
.013, .020 is for a magneto.



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RustyFarmall

11-02-2005 07:48:56




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-02-2005 04:37:46  
Pay no attention to me, I got it backwards. Goin' after more coffee



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old

11-01-2005 20:06:28




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 19:58:25  
Gap is .020. Also with the key on and your in a dim lit place you should see a spark from the points when you open and close them. If you don't then they are dirty or shorted or your not getting power to the coil. Now heres one that will mess with your head. A couple weeks ago I had and engine that I couldn't get spark. I gave up for the night and the next day just for the heck of it I turned it on and the turned the engine over and it start right up. I never figured that one out. LOL

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El Toro

11-01-2005 18:35:58




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 17:43:56  
Are you getting voltage to your coil with switch on? No voltage there you need to check at your ignition switch for voltage in to and out of the switch. That switch is fed from the small hot terminal on your starter solenoid. Set you meter on dc volts and check each location for voltage.
No voltage at switch check at the small solenoid terminal. Voltage here & none at switch your wire has a bad connection or is broken. You need to do the process of elemination. Are these new points? If not, points could be pitted or dirty. Gap & clean. Hal
PS: One of those small solenoid terminals will not have voltage until you push the starter button
to crank the engine and once you release that
the engine stops cranking. So there has to be voltage at the starter since the engine will crank.

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Flatland Farmall

11-01-2005 18:50:46




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to El Toro, 11-01-2005 18:35:58  
I can do that. The wife is more that willing to turn that switch for me.LOL But I will put the meter in it. Since it is a 12 volt, that the amount I should see on the meter right?



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El Toro

11-01-2005 18:56:45




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 18:50:46  
Should be 12 volts at your starter & switch. The
ballast resistor will drop it to 6 volts to the ignition. Hal



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Flatland Farmall

11-01-2005 19:02:09




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to El Toro, 11-01-2005 18:56:45  
The key has to only be in the on position and not actually cranking right?



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El Toro

11-03-2005 03:57:28




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 19:02:09  
Did you get the tractor strted? Hal



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Flatland Farmall

11-03-2005 08:57:32




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to El Toro, 11-03-2005 03:57:28  
Haven't touched it in a couple of days. Will try tonight.



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El Toro

11-03-2005 10:30:45




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-03-2005 08:57:32  
Let us know if you find the problem and if it starts. Hal



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El Toro

11-02-2005 04:07:31




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 19:02:09  
That's right, if that's a key start it sounds like you already have voltage at the switch since the engine will crank. There should be a wire
from that switch to your ignition. Find that wire and check for voltage with the switch in the on position. Check at the switch for 12 volts and keep following the wire to the ignition. There should be 12 volts at the ballast resistor
on the input side and 6 volts to the ignition.
If there's 12 volts going to the ignition it may have fried your coil. Hal

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RustyFarmall

11-01-2005 18:18:24




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 17:43:56  
Turned the key? You need to make a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end, connect one end directly to the hot post on the battery, and connect the other end to your coil, bypassing the resistor. This will eliminate any possibilities of a faulty wire or defective resistor. If it starts, don't run it more than a few minutes without a resistor in the system.



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Flatland Farmall

11-01-2005 18:26:35




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to RustyFarmall, 11-01-2005 18:18:24  
Rusty Farmall, I can see now that a list is starting to develope. I will try that. Keep the ideas coming guys.



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peabody

11-01-2005 18:04:52




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to Flatland Farmall, 11-01-2005 17:43:56  
Hmmm...If you checked for continuity from the points all the way back to the battery, and you have no spark at the points, sounds like the points aren't grounded properly in the distributor. Recently I had a similar problem, turned out there was juice from the coil wire to the stud on the distributor (the wire going to the condenser) on the outside, but none on the INSIDE stud to the condenser (little rust problem). Anyway, whatever it is, it's going to make you mad when you figure it out (and you WILL figure it out), cause it's probably pretty simple!
Good luck!

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Dick Davis

11-02-2005 03:07:27




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to peabody, 11-01-2005 18:04:52  
I had a point problem that I finally traced to the insulating fiber material that was positioned between the long curved two pieces of metal mounting & activation spring and the case of the distributer had slipped down out of position. I cut a slip of plastic bottle and wedged it in between the spring and the case which ensured the points weren't grounding to the case. My nickel Dick Davis (sorry for the long sentenance!

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Flatland Farmall

11-01-2005 18:12:40




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 Re: 49 Farmall H RefusesTo Start in reply to peabody, 11-01-2005 18:04:52  
I'll take your advice and clean all the wire posts. It's got to be simple, no computer just pure basics like my model T.



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