This question is electrical !

The pegged ammeter is not a concern if you had been cranking the engine a while. It's merely indication the battery has been partially run down and the alternator is charging it hard.

However as the battery reaches full charge the ammeter should drop to 3 - 5 amps or so. If it stays pegged after running 1/2 hour or more, then the battery is being overcharged - something is wrong with the alternator's regulator or it's wiring.

The resistors in that type of combo regulatign switch suppled EITHER a dead ground for the Gennys Field for High charge and a ground via a resistor on that switch for Low charge. It can still be used as a light switch if its good, but its not needed nor wired to an internally regulated alternator.

I have seen the GM 10 SI 3 wire alternators jury rigged up all sorts of ways to excite their fields/rotor so its no telling what you may have and how your switch and alternator is wired now. When I wire the GM 10 SI I use a 10 ohm current limiting protection resistor and a diode if needed in the excitation circuit, but I usually feed that off the Ignition switches IGN terminal or off the coils high input side. Most alternators are for Negative ground, in which case one has to rewire the coil and swap ammeter leads if it was an original Positive ground tractor.

YOUR SPECIFIC QUESTIONS:

Sooooo oooo, NO you do NOT need to adjust the charge rate of an internal regulated alternator..... .... It shouldnt matter if its in the L or H position, cuz theres no Generator wired to it, and therefore its resistor (Low charge) or its dead grounding (high charge) positions are of no consequence for your alternator, they were for a generator.

You mentioned a resistor and a coil????? If its a resistor in series with your Ignition Coil, they may have used the old original 6 volt coil and needed a voltage dropping (12 to 6) Ballast Resistor in series. Its wired after the ignition switch and ahead of the coil if its an ignition ballast resistor.

When I rewire for an alternator that had a genny previously, I replace any 12 gauge wire in the charging circuit with 10 gauge.

Post back any question, good luck n God Bless

John T, retired electrical engineer

If shes NOT wired equivalent to how I said and its a GM 10SI, wire it that way n see what happens. The lil jump wire from the lil side No 2 terminal up to the main output stud serves as a sensor. If the battery is good she ought to full charge a bit after startign but then back off or else you may overcharge n boil over n outgas the battery !!!!! !!!!

Let me know

John T

You want the exciter wire hooked to the switched (hot when ON) side to excite the alternator when you turn on the ignition and the resistor and diode (if necessary) will prevent run on when shes turned off.

John T