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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Help with 5288 split

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WFE

11-26-2005 17:54:28




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Earlier this past spring I posted about my 5288 IH that ran rough. After pulling the head off, there were broken rings in 2 holes and 2 damaged liners. I've decided to do a complete overhaul instead of an in-frame (because my labor's cheap and I want to do it complete) so I'll be splitting the tractor. Everything is disconnected and the tractor is ready to be split. I have a repro. shop manual but it says nothing about how to remove and/or install the motor. Like some advice from someone who's done this. I see the two frame rails that meet the transmission housing with a flange and 2 capscrews on each side. Between this flange and the transmission housing is a large plate, perhaps 1.5" thick. It looks to me that the motor, frame rails, and this 1.5" plate stay together and separate from the trans. housing. Is that correct and do I need to worry about any shaft alignments in this area? There is a cover at the bottom of this plate that looks like it leads into the transmission. It seems to me that I'll be taking that plate with the motor so the question becomes, do I have to drain the transmission before I make the split? I am thinking that once I have the split done, the motor will slide rearward out from the frame rails and I can handle it from there. Just want to make sure I am splitting it correctly to avoid any heavy things dropping inadvertently. Many thanks for any voices of experience here. I'd be happy to return the favor if anyone here needs any help or advice on Ollies. Thanks!

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JJK

11-27-2005 15:53:24




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 Re: Help with 5288 split in reply to WFE, 11-26-2005 17:54:28  
You won't see a starter on a 50 series under the floor plate because thats on the left side of the engine but you still need to take the plate out to get the two bolts loose on top of the bell housing. Once the tractor is split, everything loose from the engine, and the engine supported with a cherry picker, remove the front mounting bolts for the engine and all the bolts for the left frame rail you can then remove the engine. Check the flex plate on the flywheel to see if needs replacing, check the cam lift to see how bad the cam may be wore, and have your radiator checked for leaks and blockage as long as your that far. These are some things that need to be checked for sure on IH's. Also if you do the radiator, when you put it back in make sure you seal it back up with the foam so it pulls air from where its supposed to. Best of luck to ya!

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JakeF

11-26-2005 19:21:44




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 Re: Help with 5288 split in reply to WFE, 11-26-2005 17:54:28  
When you loosen the bolts that go through the frame and the 1 1/2" plate as you call it don't take them out, just make sure they are unthreaded all the way, or the back of the engine will drop as you split it. Also reove the fan drive shaft and all tinwork if you hav'nt. Make sure the front end is blocked so the axle can't oscilate and the weights are removed. To pull the engine you'll remove one frame rail and pull it out of the side. The 1 1/2 plate is bolted to the block and to remove it you first pull the flywheel. Also make sure to remember the 2 bolts that come in from the bellhousing into the rear engine plate when splitting. You get to them from the starter access plate in the floor of the cab. You'll also need the propper rear main seal/wear ring installer to put it back together. I would also pull the manifolds, oil cooler and filter housings off before pulling the engine, but My otc stand uses the oil cooler and filter holes to mount the adapter plate to. Hope this helps. Jake

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WFE

11-26-2005 20:19:09




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 Re: Help with 5288 split in reply to JakeF, 11-26-2005 19:21:44  
That helps quite a bit, thanks. I didn't know about the 2 bolts accessed through the cab floor. Where is this access? Also, do I need to drain the trans. housing to prevent that oil leaking out when I make the split? Thanks for the help!



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Jr64

11-27-2005 05:10:13




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 Re: Help with 5288 split in reply to WFE, 11-26-2005 20:19:09  
Pull up the floor mat in the cab and there you'll see a large plate screwed down. Remove the screws, cover, and you'll see the starter, etc. The bolts are accessible through there. You shouldn't need to drain the trans. There's a seal on the input shaft of the transmission. If you have oil in the flywheel area, the seal needs replacing.



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