Super C iginition woes Part Deuce

Turned on ignition switch, And proceeded to check for spark on both terminal
wires on the coil (the +,- wires)

The one that goes from the iginition to coil has plenty of spark, and the other which hooks to
the distributor and condensor also has spark I noticed when I tighten down the condesor connection.
To further test I cranked it over and put the
distrib end of the coil center wire close to the iron and got no spark.

Unhooked the condensor and repeated, no spark

During both these tests, I saw no spark between
the points.

What now?

Tom

John,

The condesor wire meets up with

1)the other wire
from the coil
2)the "springy" half of the two points

There is a nut used to fasten the condensor on; it was loose. I had the ignition on when I tighten it up, the wrench contact with housing caused sparks to fly.

The distributor housing has not been taken off so I think I still have good ground.

Could you send me a personal email?

You gave me way too much info and I need "spoon fed" if you dont mind.--Lets take it one thing at a time. Thanks a bunch!

You can e mail me at jmn50@msn.com or even call me. This is very basic n simple stuff actually but hard to describe in words to a novice so a phone call on your nickel may be the way to go cuz it takes too much time to type all this lol

John T

Your exactly right. Once I understand, it makes sense. I will keep on trucking and email you the results! Thanks!
Tom

NOTE this assumes (from your talk of spark??)you for sure have good n sufficient voltage getting to the coils high input (NOT to distributor) terminal, if not, that can be the problem. I would feel safer in what I say below if all you said still holds true IF YOU HOT WIRED THE COIL (try that to be safe). Ifffff f she still acts the same, then proceed as below and remember THIS ASSUMES GOOD VOLTAGE TO THE COILS INPUT. YOU GOTTA HAVE SUFFICIENT VOLTAGE THERE FIRST!!!!! !!! Theres not any external Ballast Resistoir is there????? ?? Whats the battery and coil voltages?????

Sooooo oo, if theres good voltage to the coil:::

The wire from the coil to the distributor CAN NOT BE SHORTED TO THE DISTRIBUTOR there where it goes through that plastic thingy on the side you know !!!!! !!! A cheap batery powered light continuity checker or an ohmmeter would test that so easyyyyy yyyyy . I was really worrying about a short in the points assembly spring or in the condensor or it or the points wiring, but if you removed the condensor wire from the points that should have taken it completely out of the circuit, so it dont sound like a bad/shorted condensor is the problem for now at least. That would leave either a shorted points/spring assembly or a short eleswhere. IFFFFF the distributor and points frame end are gettign good grounds????? ?

Okay, when the points are closed (which they more often are) a test lamp or voltmeter on the low (to distributor) side of the coil (same electrically as on the points terminal) SHOULD NEVER GLOW AND/OR READ NEAR ZERO VOLTS (when points closed) cuz if the points are good n closed, that should have that location dead grounded. HOWEVER, if a test lamp or meter on the coils low side or points terminal NEVER GOES OUT AND/OR STAYS NEAR BATTERY VOLTAGE, the points arent closing down for good contact or the distributor plate isnt getitgn a good ground to the tractor. YOU SURE THE POINTS ARE CLOSNG TIGHT?????

A cheap simple test lamp on the coils low (to distributor) terminal MUST flash ON when the points are closed, but go OFF when they are closed, OR SHES NEVER GONNA FIRE.

Again, if it stays on n never goes OFF, points arent good or not closing or the dist or points arent grounded (are points mounted tight??) or the wires open from coil to points..... ...If its OFF n stays off (as engine is cranked n points open) the wiring from the coil to the points is shorted (maybe the pass thru stud),,,,, ,,,or the points are shorted,,,,, ,,or wiring to points or the condensor is shorted,,,,, ,,,or condensor is shorted.

Nowwwww ww to see of the coil itslef is capable of sparking totally independant of any distributor or points etc problems,,,,,completely remove ALL wires from the coils low (to distributor) terminal,,,,, ,,,,,turn the ignition on,,,,, ,,have the coil wire removed from the distributor (leave coil end intact) and its bare end to within 1/8 inch of tractor steel,,,,, , and use a lil jumper wire n screwdriver or metal probe etc to momentarily short then remove the lil terminal to and off frame ground,,,,, ,, EACH TIME IT WAS SHORTED TO GROUND N THEN REMOVED THE COIL WIRE SHOULD FIRE ???? Does it, if so the ignition switch n coil etc is good sooooo ooooo ooo you know the problem is in the points or distributor like a short or an open wire as described above.

Check the wires from coil to distributor and inside the distributor and the points for closing and for any shorts like the pass thru wiring stud or the points spring,,,,, , then see if the problem is a test lamp on the coils low side stays on or off as shes cranked over,,,,, ,then test the coil as described above,,,,, ,,then based on the theory I laid on ya you ought to be able to figure out what the problem is.

Lemme know,,,,, ,,,thanks for the update, good luck n God Bless

John T

For the record, this is a 6 volt system, positive ground. The "high input" you mention
is actually the negative line which goes to the
ignition

"The wire from the coil to the distributor CAN NOT BE SHORTED TO THE DISTRIBUTOR there where it goes through that plastic thingy on the side you know !!!!! !!! A cheap batery powered light continuity checker or an ohmmeter would test that so easyyyyy yyyyy ."

Which wire? You talking about the "+" wire to the distributor or the center coil wire?

"Okay, when the points are closed (which they more often are) a test lamp or voltmeter on the low (to distributor) side of the coil (same electrically as on the points terminal) SHOULD NEVER GLOW AND/OR READ NEAR ZERO VOLTS (when points closed) cuz if the points are good n closed, that should have that location dead grounded.

Ok one probe of the voltmeter on the coil-to-distributor stud on the coil ("+") and the other end of the voltmeter to where? (Im not electrically savvy)

"HOWEVER, if a test lamp or meter on the coils low side or points terminal NEVER GOES OUT AND/OR STAYS NEAR BATTERY VOLTAGE, the points arent closing down for good contact or the distributor plate isnt getitgn a good ground to the tractor. YOU SURE THE POINTS ARE CLOSNG TIGHT????? "

Again, where do I put the voltmeter leads?

"Nowwwww ww to see of the coil itslef is capable of sparking totally independant of any distributor or points etc problems,,,,,completely remove ALL wires from the coils low (to distributor) terminal,"

There is only one wire from coil to the distributor, that is the "+" wire. You say ALL
Wires---meaning more than one. Confused. ",,,turn the ignition on,,,,, ,,have the coil wire removed from the distributor (leave coil end intact) and its bare end to within 1/8 inch of tractor steel,,,,, , and use a lil jumper wire n screwdriver or metal probe etc to momentarily short "

How am I jumping? from where to where? Excuse my ignorance...

"then remove the lil terminal to and off frame ground"

"lil" terminal? Arent we talking about the center coil wire that is the largest of the three wires on the coil? Or am I misunderstanding?

Sorry for not understanding, Im just not electrically educated....

Q: Which wire? You talking about the "+" wire to the distributor or the center coil wire?

A: On a Pos ground tractor, that should be the lil wire that hooks to the coils lil + terminal NOT the big center high voltage coil output lead. Its the big high voltage lead which should spark to ground each time the points were closed but are then opened..... ...

Q: Ok one probe of the voltmeter on the coil-to-distributor stud on the coil ("+") and the other end of the voltmeter to where? (Im not electrically savvy)

A: The voltmeter (or better a cheap simple test lamp) will have its - black lead on the coils lil + terminal and its red + lead on frame ground..... .....

Q: There is only one wire from coil to the distributor, that is the "+" wire. You say ALL
Wires---meaning more than one. Confused.

A: MY fault, I mean the wire on the coils lil + terminal (one that leads down to distributor) SHOULD BE REMOVED..... ..

Q: How am I jumping? from where to where? Excuse my ignorance...

"then remove the lil terminal to and off frame ground"

"lil" terminal? Arent we talking about the center coil wire that is the largest of the three wires on the coil? Or am I misunderstanding?

A: Okay, the big center high voltage wire (removed from distributor cap) is the one held 1/8 away fromm tractor steel and what should spark that gap when the points were closed then open. You jump/connect a lil jumper wire FROM the coils lil + terminal to frame ground, and each time its grounded but then removed, the coils big high votage lead ought to spark the 1/8 gap to the tractor.

John T