Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

706 rebuild 3 questions?

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Kelly C

01-07-2006 18:13:19




Report to Moderator

Man am I bushed, been out there wrenchin all day.
Got her pretty much tore down.

Of course I broke some bolts :-)
Getting the fan,air cleaner and thermostat off was hardest part of the whole job so far. The bolts holding the air cleaner are rounded off so bad cant get a wrench to them at all. Had to cut the fan belt to get to get it off.


Here is a burnt valve in the head. What are the symptoms of this condition?

Took the oil pan off. three things I am trying to decide before I continue. #1 ridge ream the cylinders to get the pistons out. Or just try to get them out as is? #2 Should I remove the support bracket for the wide front to gain better access to the bottom of the engine? #3 Buy a puller plate to pull the sleeves or weld a bead along the inside of the sleeve to remove?

I have updated my web site for those who like to follow along :-)

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
captaink

01-09-2006 07:35:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: 706 rebuild 3 questions? in reply to Kelly C, 01-07-2006 18:13:19  
Lots of good stuff here so far. One more thing on the burnt valve. When you have the valves done make sure that it has rotators on the exhaust valves and that they are working correctly. If the exhaust valve doesn't rotate then it is possible that carbon could get between the face and the seat and allow the extremely hot exhaust gas to pass through during the power cycle in the cylinder. This super-heated gas will over heat the thin outer margin of the valve possibly to the point that it will literally blow out a small portion of the valve. Once this begins, it just gets worse, eventually to the point that yours is. A burned valve left go long enough can cost you a guide (valve is always under sideways pressure when closed) and a seat if the valve guide gets loose enough to allow the valve to shift off center on the seat.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
the tractor vet

01-08-2006 07:14:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: 706 rebuild 3 questions? in reply to Kelly C, 01-07-2006 18:13:19  
Well now is the time to get the engine out and do it all the way , now for the broken bolt just use a tourch and warm up the outside a littel and a pair of vice grips . That burnt valve was cause by several things (1) the type of oil that was used and (2) timming . (3) gas . Now on to the piston - sleeve get the Mic. out and see how much ware and the amount of taper in each hole more then likely it is time for a rebuild so if it is that time then ridge reaming is not nesseary since your going to replace everything as just putting a set of rings on the old pistons is just a bandaid and the honing is just going to open her up even more . it is time to redo the head with new guides springs and most likely all the valves and keepers and have it trued up take off nomore then what is nessary , Mic the crank and do both end of the rods check the lobes on the cam and the lifters as a woren cam will not allow the valves to close at the correct time. I have redone more 706's then probably anybody on here and have lost count of the ones bought and fixed and sold when they are fixed wright they are one heck of a good tractor and will give years of excellant service . Now i am somewhat of a motor head and like to get all the Hp. that i can and if i am redoing a 263 then i make them the 291 as they are day and night differant from the 263 and when your that far into to it a bore job is not that much more then you know that everything is back in line if it is done correctly as i like to have it done on a stationary bar and line up off the crank throw . The last two that i did i even had them balanced boy did that help, they ran somuch smoother.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hassan Fortney

01-08-2006 00:32:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: 706 rebuild 3 questions? in reply to Kelly C, 01-07-2006 18:13:19  
Yeap she looks good there kelly have fun pulling those sleeves welder dose work I guess. the big thing is becarful to not over heat that bore.
and yes poping out the exhaust will cause this condtion. it also bring up a good question. why dose this happen also was it on no6? exhaust, this has been a discusion that my dad and I had for years is it a timing issue? or sipmly a igntion issue. in the automotive past the old 302 fords had a problem with burning a hole in 7 and 8 pistons this was mostly due the the fireing order and the way the wires where run under the hood and may times this also burn the exaust valves in these engine as well. I know a 302 ford is not any way related to the international inline 6 c-263-291 but here is my 2 cents on igntion for these beasts first get good wires and high quality spark plugs route the wires away from each other "dont zip tie them together" induction voltage from the other wires can cause a cross fire under heavy loads. also invest in cdi igntion other words get rid of the points and put a 87 amp or higher alternator on that bad boy
there is another post on here that i put on explaining which one to chose and a good hot igntion coil. I may sound like I am ranting but after building a fair share of these c263-291 internationals. seen lots total melt downs that is just my theroy.

the alternator is to make sure you get a hot spark.

and last thing to remember this engine was built for 93 octane most fuel as we all know is 87 or less by the time it's dumped into the gas tank.some the timing need to be set. go to your fvorite parts store and get a mrgasket degree wheel and mark it on the frt pulley my dad always said 6 to 12 past tdc. at 800 rpm

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
billde

01-07-2006 20:57:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: 706 rebuild 3 questions? in reply to Kelly C, 01-07-2006 18:13:19  
question 1 yes, 2 yes 3 yes, you will also need it to reinstall your sleeves.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MN Scott

01-07-2006 20:40:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: 706 rebuild 3 questions? in reply to Kelly C, 01-07-2006 18:13:19  
Looks just like my 706 looks right now, all torn down. I was lucky, no bolts broke. My sleeves had no ridges but one was badlly scored and the other ones had minor scuffing. I would cut the ridges as it will be hard to pound those pistons past them with out damaging something else. I removed the axle support bracket, it would be very hard to work around it torquing bolts and such. I had a sleeve puller so I just had the local machine shop cut me an adapter, cost me $20. If you were closer you could come and get it. Welding would work good to but you really have to be carefull of the slag getting into everything. I pulled my sleeves this morning, really surprized me they pulled right out. BTW that intake valve next to the burnt exuast valve looks like it is receded into the head a long ways to, looks like your going to be spending some money at the machine shop. Good luck!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Thresherman

01-07-2006 20:14:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: 706 rebuild 3 questions? in reply to Kelly C, 01-07-2006 18:13:19  
Use ridge reamer, makes the job easier.
Remove bracket, along with radiator(those are expensive to fix when you knock a hole in one.
Use a puller plate, see if any one has one you can borrow, or make one. I am sure some one has a homemade design on here.
A burnt valve will cause a miss, kind of a popping noise.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy