puffed once and the starter stuck.

So,
I took the starter into a place in Lincoln where they replaced the drive and springs. Put the starter back on with a new 6-volt battery and it turn over a couple of times and then it stuck again after a puff of smoke.

So I’ve removed the starter and will take it back to them. Is there anything sticking out that I’ve forgotten or should look at after they fix the starter again?

I haven’t let myself get to frustrated yet because I am a rookie, but ready to move the tractor so I can get my boat out of the barn. It been warm in Nebraska and next week is gonna be 55-60.

Thanks again for your help

Pull the starter and take a peek the ring gear on the flywheel. You will likely find the ends of gear teeth facing the starter are rounded in two areas 180 deg apart.

The fix is to install a new ring gear. Replacing the gear itself is not a big job, and the part costs only about $40. But you'll need to split the tractor to do it.

For me, I would probable drive it to a Case dealer or someone with a better setup who could fix it.

It has a hand crank but I think its stuck. My dad came over and tried the hand crank(he is a big german who milked cows for way to long)and couldn't get it to move. Scott

The hand crank won't work since crankshaft must be turned backward to release the starter. (Rachet action by the crank drive only lets it turn the crankshaft forward...)

Loosening the bolts holding the starter several turns, then giving the starter a tap with a block of wood always works. (I always kept a 3/4" box wrench aboard my Super H for that purpose only).

Don't bother oiling the ring gear - it will have no effect. And if any oil gets past the ring gear and into the clutch you will suddenly have ANOTHER reason to split the tractor!

Some guys have had success "sharpening" rounded ring gear teeth with a file or Dremel tool. But it's kinda tedious and it's in a very tight space....will give you a good appreciation for the kinda work your denist does all day.

With my tractors I found a new starter drive tends to jam more often in a worn ring gear than does a worn drive. So sticking the old starter drive back on may help get the tractor started.

Also before hitting the starter, turn the crank 90 degrees (1/4 turn) from it's normal resting spot. This will present relatively unworn ring gear teeth to the starter and greatly reduce the chance of the starter jamming when you hit the button.

Good luck!

I went down to the shop over lunch and had them retest the starter, it was working fine he said.

One other thing, on my first starting try after rewiring with new starter and battery. There was pop on the top bolt of the igition button. I've also read about polorizing today, a little late. Would this have anything to do with the starter being stuck or did I just ruin another part because I didn't polorize (don't know how I guess) prior to stepping on the igition petal.

Tonight I will take a picture of the teeth, but I do know that they are worn.

Again, I did rewire the tractor as shown on your six volt diagrams (assuming I got it all correct).
Thanks for your help and that one other post I read about someone selling your work.... It is wrong out of principle and all my support to you. scott

You've got a fat cable from the battery to the starter switch, and a fat cable from the starter switch to the starter. Plus, you have a ground from the battery to the tractor frame. That's the only cabling necessary for the starter system on a letter-series Farmall. The rest of the wiring is completely independent, and will have no effect on whether the starter works or not.

The pop you heard is probably due to the fact that the starter switch's internal contacts are burned, and it's not making perfect contact. It's just a spark arcing across the gap. Starter switches weren't the greatest way to handle that much current. You can't push the button fast enough to keep a spark from jumping the gap and burning the contacts.

Now unless you reversed battery polarity or installed a new generator, technically you shouldn't need to repolarize the generator. However repolarizing cannot hurt, and it's simple to do:

With everything connected electrically and the engine off, take a scrap of wire and momentarily jumper the BAT and ARM terminals at the regulator. The instant you make contact - you may notice a small spark - you have successfully polarized!

Thanks also for your words of support on the issue involving the plagerizing Ebayer!

I guess my plan of attack will be to have the starter checked again. I removed it. and take a picture of ring gear and post it for opinions and just go on from there.

Thanks again.