Tractor Rollover Safety - WF vs NF

So my question is how concerned should I be about the potential of a 350 utility to roll over? I know the answer is that any tractor can roll over, and I have no intention of going beyond my comfort level, but I'm sure that most people in a rollover did not intend to go beyond their comfort level.

How much better is a WF than a NF tractor from a rollover/safety perspective? I wonder if there are any statistics about the percentage of tractors that rolled, how many were NF vs WF. It seems there is a false sense of security, at least in my mind, that a WF is that much safer than a NF, but I don't know.

Safety first. I would just like to get some other perspectives. Thanks.

Joe

My experience with a 350U is that the stability is very good (possibly better than my JD5420), but the brakes were marginal on a steep grade. I was actually forced to use the front end loader to stop more than a few times.

As far as the brakes, I know what you mean. I took the tractor down the hill a way, and it took some distance to get it stopped. No danger, but that is what I wanted to test, and gave myself plenty of room. It got me thinking about putting new brakes in it, but are you saying the brakes in a 350 utility are nothing to be proud of, even when new? It is a new tractor to me, and the brakes are what they were when I bought it, so I have no idea if new brakes would be an improvement or not.

Three factors will lower that center of graviety, namely; liquid balast in the tires is the best as it will add weight very close to the ground, wheel and frame solid weights help but weight is not as close to the ground as liquid weight and last but not least is wheel tread setting, a tractor on 84" tread setting is much more stable than the same tractor on 60" tread setting.

These three factors will make much greater difference than wide versus narrow front end. When farming I had 2 Farmalls equiped with duals and no added weight. These tractors were close to 11' wide outside on rear wheels. Many times I have seen them slide sideways on side hills with no fear of upsetting. Now I realize from your description, you probably don't want the 350 - 11' wide, just wanted to show what effect this has. You get that 350 Utility out around 72" centers on rear wheels, it will act much like a mountain goat. If you normally like it around 60" wheel tread, get a set of snapon duals for use on side hills.

Thanks for the advice.

Joe

Tire shops have pumps and they can do a tire in about 1/2 hour. These pumps don't have a long life, thus one has to be doing a lot tires to justify these.

If I were you and didn't need the weight for traction, if not doing a lot of heavy pulling, I'd go with the dual wheel idea. You could put these duals on for going down your slope. Look for a set of snap on duals that can be removed or installed in 5 min. Even a set of steel band wheels slightly smaller than your rubber tires, fabricate a systen to clamp these outside your tires. They work fine if you don't need added traction. E mail me if you have questions.

Realistically the lower center of gravity has a major contribution to stability. The WFE only begins to help (dramatically) when the axle hits the front casting. Till then there is only a pivot in the middle of the front axle.

As to your question, make a 15 degree triangle about 3' long out of cardboard. using a level, walk the proposed road. if the slope to the side is greater than 15 deg. I would do some dozer work first.

Down hills and up hills are less problems (maybe 20 deg.) pulling hard up hill can also be dramatic if the power needs to be in the 3ta or slower range full throttle. Wheelies (and flip over backwards) are possible.

Remember to go down hill in direct drive (TA forward) to save the Ta from overspeed, and your life from crashes.

JimN

Allan