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Tractor fuel

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Marvin Gill

03-23-2006 19:50:29

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Hello, I bought my first tractor a week ago. A 53' Super M. I was wondering if I needed to add a lead substitute to the gasoline. The guy who sold it to me says he adds a little automatic tranny fluid when he gasses up. This seems to me like it would foul the plugs, etc. I know the best thing is to add hardened valve seats but that would be too expensive. Anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks--Marvin

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buddys

03-24-2006 11:18:19

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

i guess i should explain better the 2 cycle oil cleans out a lot of deposits.when tractor would get slugish would run 5 gallon of it through.i woulnt use all the time just once in awhile to clean her up or if you want to get a little more power out of her it helps raise octane level.we ran this in 1948 h and she stil running good on original motor never been rebuilt and will out pull the 1951 h we have that has been rebuilt.must be helping somewhere,my grandpa is where i got this was his tractor.

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billonthefarm

03-24-2006 06:03:02

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

marvin I think somone else touched on this, your tractor should have hard seats. Pretty sure that when they started the super tractors they had hardend seats. Do some checking on that. As far as needing any additives I dont believe you need any of them. Some friends and I use several antiques for alot of work during the year and no one uses any additives and have seen no ill effects after several years. bill

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CNKS

03-24-2006 05:31:44

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

You are wasting your money and not helping anything with additives of ANY kind. Use regular unleaded gas.

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Jim Allen

03-24-2006 05:16:17

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

RE: Lead substitute. I don't think you need it either. Valve seat recession is mostly a product of engine speed, e.g. it will happen faster on a high speed engine than a low speed one. Plus, you aren't going to put a lot of hours on that unit anyway, nor work it 8 hours a day, five days a week for years on end. With a hobby tractor, the owner would be long dead before any significant damage is done

RE: Motor oil or ATF in the fuel, I'm agin it! Im my experience, it just makes carbon deposits. I've never heard of adding 2-stroke oil though. They have some lubricity additives that actually might be benificial and not leave many deposits. Still, speaking generically, it's unnecessary, IMHO. Valve stem lubrication comes from the lube oil inside the engine. We already discussed seat issues. Save you money for stuff lots more cool.

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BUDDYS

03-23-2006 23:31:59

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

YOU CAN ALSO POUR A LITTLE CHAIN SAW GAS;2 CYCLE OIL IN WILL CLAEN UP AN GIVES IT A LITTLE BOOST.WE USED TO PULL H AT COUNTY FAIR GROUNDS AND WOULD ADD A LITTLE PEP TO HER SHE WON A FEW TIMES .OTHER WISE USED H TO FILL FEEDER AND THATS IT.

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Hugh MacKay

03-23-2006 22:40:13

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

Marvin: Forget that foolish lead additive idea, it was for high performance, high rpm engines. Your SM is neither of those. I've been burning non leaded gas in Farmalls since it first came out 35 years ago. I can tell you you will be rebuilding the bottom half of the engine long before the head creates any problems.

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jimmyjoe in mn.

03-23-2006 20:43:41

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

When I had the head done on SMTA I was told it had hardend valve seats from the factory.

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03-23-2006 20:39:05

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

For a bit of instigation from the factory: IHC manual for old tractors I found for F20 project- mix 1 cup of motor oil to 5 to 10 gallons of gasoline when doing heavy work at full power, example- plowing. I think it was Wallace farmer about 10 years back had some articles on tractor wear of valves- IHC, Case, AC designs late 40s to 60s noted as most concern at full power use, JD twins(slow speed) and Ford N(hardened valves) less concern. Suggestion was 100 to 1 2stroke mix or other light oil mix. Earlier engines were often meant to run on distilate/kerosene like fuel or a 'tractor fuel' mix of 1/2 gas,1/2 kerosene base. English TVO (Tractor Volitise oil) mixes also oily base. RPM noted as above 1600 and heavy load, light use at 1/2 throttle was minimal wear. note valve guides also a wear point. Check valve lash, know your work load, a little oil in gas won't hurt. RN

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jeffcat

03-23-2006 20:15:46

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

Going on the info in the old owners mannuels for small engines. When the lead no lead stuff first came up {1975} they said to mix a lean chain saw fuel mix in your tank. I would guess maybe about 80 to one. Ten gallons of regular fuel and three or four little bottles of saw mix. Use the big bottles from NAPA or box stores. Mix so you have something to lube the valves. Sounds a little silly but no lead gas DOES slowly errode the seats. Neighbor just redid the head on his pal's Oliver Super55. You could see a little grove in the valve seats. Some of the tractor guys on this web site have gone all over this subject.
My $.o2 Jeffcat

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old

03-23-2006 19:54:38

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to Marvin Gill, 03-23-2006 19:50:29

Save you money, the lead stuff isn't any good for any thing but spending your money and keeping that company going. Tractors are low compression engines and the cheapest gas you can buy works just great in them. Plus did you know the lead stuff doesn't even have any lead in it.

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Harley

03-23-2006 20:21:56

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Re: Tractor fuel in reply to old, 03-23-2006 19:54:38

there's hundreds of thousands of those old tractors out there still running and I'll bet there ain't 1% of them get additives. I know mine don't. They'd get too uppity ifn I started putting additives in them. They think they are lucky to get gas once a week. Harley

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