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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Okay, Let's Try This

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Allan In NE

04-08-2006 07:20:47




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Bear with me, fellas.

Been readin' all the responses to my "hot" problem and the old mechanic in me is kickin' in.

How do you adjust the timing on a 310?

Hard startin' cold and running hot under a long extended pull just smacks of late ignition timing, doesn't it?

Allan

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FromJB2

04-08-2006 09:22:55




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 Re: Okay, Let's Try This in reply to Allan In NE, 04-08-2006 07:20:47  
Hi Allan, I have no expierence with D310 but have extensive expierence with the smaller 3 cyl D179 and 4 cyl D239 version of the same German built Diesel engine.

Quick timing test, when engine is up to operating tempurature. If the engine starts in about 1 rev and dosen't kick back on the starter the timing is probably OK.

Re over heating, had the same problem on 454 with D179. When working hard on NI cutditioner it would run close to hot... replaced thermostat and water pump, flushed rad still running hot.
Finally took rad off and to a rad shop where they cleaned it out with high pressure steam.
Lots of scale and junk came out and no more over heating.

JB2

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Allan In NE

04-08-2006 10:17:04




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 Re: Okay, Let's Try This in reply to FromJB2, 04-08-2006 09:22:55  
JB,

No Sir, when it is anything above 60 degrees or so, you can't get your thumb off the starter button fast enough. Starts like a brand new engine.

Dunno, this heating thing is really "quirky". The darned tractor just doesn't act like it is actually hot. I think it is in the darned gauge, maybe.

Allan



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the tractor vet

04-08-2006 07:56:41




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 Re: Okay, Let's Try This in reply to Allan In NE, 04-08-2006 07:20:47  
Don't have my book setting next to me this morning but on the 310 's hard starting can be a number of things and over heating is not one of them now as for hard starting cranking pressure of the pump and tha means that the head on the pump has more clearance then it should or slow cranking speed and that means that the starter is not getting enough juice or the bushings are getting woren , injectors are not breaking at the correct pressure or spray pattern is not sprayen wright caused by carbon build up or plug tips , low compression due to bad rings or woren sleeves or the valves are down in the head to far. late timming will make her lazy . As for checking the timming there is a window on the outside of the pump and there will be a pointer inside of that window and a scribed line on the disk that will line up when ya have the timming pointer lined up with the correct timming marks on the flywheel on the right hand side on the flywheel and to adjust you remove the plate on the ft. of the timming cover on the ft. side of the pump and there are three - four bolts in the gear with slots and you place a scoket on the center nut on the injection shaft and turn . Now finding the scribbed line at times can be a bear as if the pump has been rebuilt and new parts have been put in some pump guys do not make the line real easy to see . And the only way that you can check cranking pressure is to pull the pump and now get this is to rebuild it then check as nobody will take and old pump and put it on there stand and run it as it is as they do not want to contamenate there stand with and old dirty pump.

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FromJB2

04-08-2006 07:52:36




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 Re: Okay, Let's Try This in reply to Allan In NE, 04-08-2006 07:20:47  
Hi Allan, the procedure is in the I&T shop service manual.
If you uncover your email, I will scan the page and email it to you.

JB2



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Allan In NE

04-08-2006 08:43:06




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 Re: Okay, Let's Try This in reply to FromJB2, 04-08-2006 07:52:36  
Duh, dumb me.

Had the derned book right in front of me all the time. Geeze! :>(

Thanks,

Allan



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