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Hi. Setting the valves to .014 rather than 0.17 would not keep the engine from starting. It may not run as well as it could, and the valves are a lot more likely to burn, but unless there's something else wrong it will run. Assuming you didn't change anything except the valves, you have the classic symptoms of setting the valve lash at TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. This will result in the valves being so loose they never open far enough to let the engine run. Another possibility is that the valve timing is off one tooth. I've seen car engines run with the valve timing off by a tooth; they have no power & trouble reaching higher RPM. Don't take this the wrong way, but are you absolutely certain you had #1 set at TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke? Were the valves really tight & you had to loosen them a long ways to get enough clearance? Quick way to check valve timing. With the valve cover off, watch the two valves on #1 as you turn the engine. The transition from exhaust to intake occurs at top dead center on the exhaust stroke. As the engine turns, you'll be able to see the exhaust valve close at the same time the intake valve opens, almost like the valves are "rocking" from one to the other. This point should correspond to top dead center on the exhaust stroke, and the timing mark should be aligned to TDC, assuming the valve timing is set correctly. One full revolution of the engine past this point, with the timing marks aligned again, will correspond to TDC on the compression stroke, which is the position at which you want to set the valve lash. Good luck, Keith
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