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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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986 frame

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4 R's

04-18-2006 11:22:50




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where the frame rail along engine meets the transmission, keeps breaking apart. welds just seem to not hold. no hard pulling done just used promarily for raking hay and thats it. any sugg. on how to stop this?




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K.B.-826

04-18-2006 17:18:46




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 Re: 986 frame in reply to 4 R's, 04-18-2006 11:22:50  
I would imagine that a frame rail from a salvage yard would be fairly cheap and easy to find. Support the tractor just enough to take the weight off under the clutch housing and it should just be a matter of unbolting the old rail and bolting up the new one. Make sure your bolts are torqued to spec.



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Sheepdog in NE

04-18-2006 18:52:50




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 Re: 986 frame in reply to K.B.-826, 04-18-2006 17:18:46  
I agree with getting a different rail. Never heard of one breaking welds either. Just your lucky day!



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the tractor vet

04-18-2006 15:55:58




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 Re: 986 frame in reply to 4 R's, 04-18-2006 11:22:50  
As for myself it would be 7018 and a vertical weld from the bottom up and and 1/8 inch rod at around 125 -130 . Or get it back into place and tack weld it to hold it and remove the frame rail and weld it on the bench and look and see if it was stiched welded on the back side and reweld it the same . Now i have never seen any weld on any of the I H frame rails break but hey that does not mean that they have not failed else where

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Janicholson

04-18-2006 13:07:01




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 Re: 986 frame in reply to 4 R's, 04-18-2006 11:22:50  
We do not know what "welding" has been attempted, so assuming the worst!

Use an angle head grinder and remove all existing weld to base metal. Do not reduce the thickness of the frame metal or bracket. Use wedges and clamps to position the frame rail onto the bracket so that it is correctly positioned.

V out the area where they touch to about 2/3 of the frame thickness. Do not make a wide V (about 1/4" at the widest).

I would use 5/32" E-1714 rod on AC with about 120-135 amps. Weld a root pass down from top about one inch and stop. Beat the devil out of the weld when it has just turned black with a pointed slag hammer. (this stress relieves the metal and makes it much stronger)

wait about 5 minutes, and make another 1" pass starting at the bottom of the first. Again beat it to death with the hammer. Again wait five minutes then cool the weld area with air (not water)

When cool repeat the process until a root pass, and three top passes are applied and beaten to death (using a 1/4" drift punch on the top passes makes your pounding less visible).

Grind off spatter and paint.

JimN

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