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help 706 quits under load

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jbwny

04-27-2006 19:11:32

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I hope someone can help me. I have a 706 gas that i bought this past winter from a small dealer. Since i bought previous owner told me it quits under a load....and he was right. Drove it a few miles to get a haybine i bought tonight and coming home towing haybine in high gear up very slight hill it started to sputter and quit. I kept it running by pulling choke out , but i only could use 3rd gear rest of the way home or it would quit. previous owner thinks it has something to do with someone up graded the points with electronic ignition. please help...whats wrong with it

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evilboweviel

04-28-2006 07:20:59

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to jbwny, 04-27-2006 19:11:32

next time take the fuel cap off long shot but does happen
definitly a fuel problem
Ron

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Allan In NE

04-28-2006 05:01:29

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to jbwny, 04-27-2006 19:11:32

JB,

If the choke "helps" the situation, you are flat running out of fuel. There is a restriction somewhere.

Allan

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the tractor vet

04-27-2006 19:23:42

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to jbwny, 04-27-2006 19:11:32

First start at the fuel tank and make sure that you have good fuel flow if not then drain the tank and pull the sedimat bowl out as there may be something stuck in the opening . Next remove the fuel line at the carb and pull the fitting out of the carb and make sure the screen is clean . Next do a tune up on it make sure that you have solid copper core wires on it and that the cap and rotor are good make sure that you are running either a autolite or a A/C spark plug . Next check the timming , now here is where it gets tricky ya have to know if it is a C263 engine or a C291 engine as they set differant and this will cause you a bunch of trouble , timming is set at full throttel and for total advance 22 degrees for a 263 and nomore then 20 tops for a 291 . Also make sure that the coil is not getting hot if it is getting hot then replace it . Now for the big thing with a 706 gasser are you ready for this you ain't going to like it but here it comes----- Ya HAVE TO RUN 93 octain gas in them no if ans or buts about it if you are going to try and do any work .

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jbwny

04-27-2006 19:37:28

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to the tractor vet, 04-27-2006 19:23:42

i was hoping you were on line thanks. Iam running 93 octane , i have seen you tell others that so i always run 93. its a 263 unless its been rebuilt and turned into a 291. I only plan on using it to cut and bale hay...and plow once in awhile. I feel lost on this tractor ive only ever had a 460,400 and a few h. it really runs great the sedimat bowl looks clean. someone told me to put points and condesner back in it...but it seemed tonight like a fuel problem. vet i wished you lived closer so you could look at it. i will pull the screen out of the carb tomorrow.

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Nat 2

04-28-2006 05:03:35

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to jbwny, 04-27-2006 19:37:28

You are correct. If the tractor continues to run by pulling the choke, then it is NOT an ignition problem. The choke affects fuel flow, not spark.

You have a carburetor problem, or a general fuel flow problem. If the sedimEnt bowl is clean, that's a start but it doesn't mean that the hole in the bottom of the gas tank isn't plugged up with bits of rust and crud.

My personal opinion is that it's internal to the carburetor, as pulling the choke allows the tractor to continue running.

You would be a fool to listen to those technophobes who are trying to hand you the line that the electronic ignition is the problem. They're crotchety old farts who fear anything they do not understand with prejudice.

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the tractor vet

04-28-2006 07:38:39

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to Nat 2, 04-28-2006 05:03:35

Now Nat her is a littel didddy for ya to put in you pipe it can also be timming related as pulling the choke out will richen the fuel mixture and thus reduce piston heating . Now nowhere did i say anything about a electronic ing. Now i have seen them and worked on them and have had some problems with them as they were installed incorrectly and some have gone bad . I have had to replace two over the years since they came out . Now also if by chance that engine has been updated with new oversize sleeves and pistons and the dist has not been changed and the main jet in the carb not changed then it can be leaning out and total advance timming is off . Just like the update dist curve kit for the old H's and M's just how many of them have been change????? don't know can't tell ya till i check them myself . I can't be sure on his 706 because i can not check it myself . There is a chance that when someone installed it that maybe they used to long of a screw and even screwed up the centrifcal advance . Could be that there is a bug blocking half the inlet to the sediment bowl a pice of wood anything . This LONG DISTANCE TRACTOR REPAIR IS TOUGH as there is a lot of COULD BE's . Now ya think we have problems today with the gas tractors of old just wait till next year when the reduce the sulfur in the diesel even more and the older diesels start having pump and injector problems worse then when they first did it . Now also what are we going to do with the new gas do you think that your old tractor is going to run on it ???? a lot of the problems on older tractors come down to fuel related . Now i am by no means a expert but have a tad more knolage on stuff then most and i sure as heck don't have all the answers as i am still learning .

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the tractor vet

04-27-2006 19:53:11

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Re: help 706 quits under load in reply to jbwny, 04-27-2006 19:37:28

Make sure that you have a good strong flow of fuel and also make sure that your manifold bolts are tight they have a tendency to come loose . and also make sure that the heat riser is working and the bi metal spring is in place on the heat riser . that is the littel shaft sticking out of the side of the maiflod above the carb and there is a lever counter weight on the backside. This should move freely . BUT PUT A TIMMING LITE ON IT and clean up the ft. pulley and find your timming makes and mark it for the 22 degrees advance , now like you said who knowes if it has been upgraded to a 291 or not ???? but if you hear any pigging then back the timming up to 20 degrees also make sure the centrifical advance is working inside the dist. Yep it is to bad that your not with in driving distance. As i still make house calls.

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