M burning points

What in the H is the problem!!??

Define "burning points". Are they actually burning the points clear away or are they just dis-coloring and pitting a bit?

A certain amount of "burning" is plumb normal. With 8 volts at the points, I just don't see the problem.

12 volt automotive applications with points always would run in at around 10.8 volts at the distributor side of the coil and they would easily run a year or 10,000 miles before they needed replaced.

Allan

I think that generic coil you claim is for use WITH OR WITHOUT a Ballast just isnt matching up with your condensor rating which is causing the points to burn up prematurely OR ELSE ITS SIMPLY WAY TOOOOO O LOW OHMSSSSS (should be near 3 ohms). For use "with or without" a ballast doesnt make good engineering sense to me for an old fashioned tractor points n condensor coil ignition system which ought to have sufficient total primary (coil + any external ballast) resistance to limit the current switched to around 4 amps or so MAX. REMEMBER EITHER excess current (over 4 maps) or a weak or mis sized condensor causes premature points burn up.

I suspect that coils primary (between lil + and - terminals) is under 2 ohms and that excess current is frying the points, or else the condensor is wayyyyy yy off size in microfarads to match up correctly with that coils inductance, hence no capacitive action, frying the points.

The other alternative would be to use the old 6 volt coil and an external ballast of around 1.5 to 1.85 ohms (typical sizes on those ignitions) and the stock condensor from IHC CUZ IM NOT TRUSTING THAT SUPPOSED DUAL PURPOSE COIL ONE BIT LOL

John T

I've heard good things about electronic ignition. Should I just scrap the point set up now that I have 12V and go with the electronic igintion? Is my 12V coil for use with or without resistor usable with EI?

Thanks for everyone's input.

My recommendation would be to put the old coil back on and stick on a NEW ballast resistor. (Ask for one for a 70's era Chysler car - NAPA # 13ICR or equivalent). I've had this setup running on my Super M with the same set of points for 15+ years.

Personally I wouldn't spend the $$$ on electronic ignition. The stock ignition - even after a 12 volt conversion - is more than adequate for your tractor. (OTOH once you go electronic you'll never need to mess with the points again!)

If you can barely hold your hand on the coil cuz its so hot it may be a 6 volt (12 for use with external ballast)coil!!!!

Its hard to really test a condensor with an ohmmeter, you need a real condensor tester. An ohmmeter can tell if its bad/shorted and capacitance to some degree, but if in doubt have it tested or get a new one. Make sure its connected good to the points terminal and has a good case ground also.

The points need to close nice n even n flush with each other or they burn up quicker.

Let us know

John T

1 – (Long shot...) Are you certain the condensers are good? Use the ohms function on a VOM or DVM and measure the resistance between the pigtail and the can: On a good condenser when the test leads make contact the meter will show very low resistance. Resistance will then rise over a period of several seconds into the megohm range.

2 – Is the condenser can solidly grounded to the breaker plate? (A poor or no ground here gives a weak spark and will burn points quickly.)

3 – When the engine stopped and the ignition on, measure the current in the coil primary. You should see 2 - 3 amps or. A reading of 5 amps or more means the resistance of the ballast resistor is wrong (too low). Burned points and an overheated coil can be the result.