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Mornin' Pat, Here's what I would do. Pull that bottom cover taking note of any debris you find. Be careful, it is heavy! If you find lots of steel and brass shavings, I'd forget the whole deal, 'cause somebody tried to start it by towing. If, on the other hand, it is "relatively" clean, continue on: At this point, and by the rules, you need a pressure test and it is where we start spending money, so don't hollar at me if this doesn't work, okay? :>) However, you've already said that at one point or another, the tractor has moved 200 feet in one direction, 35 feet in the other direction and then with subsequent attempts (and the hotter the tractor gets), the darned thing "acts like it is slipping" and just won't move? Right? I'll bet you by everything that is holy that the check valves in the center section are bad. It is what hydros do; they beat the crap out of those valves and you cannot tell they are bad by just "lookin' at 'em". They are the two little guys on the upper right in the last picture. First, forget that "shift linkage" affair. That isn't the problem. It is supposed to be really sloppy and floppy like that. Pull the pump on the right hand side of the tractor also. If you are real careful and some idiot hasn't been in there with gasket sealer, you can save those gaskets/o-rings. I had mine apart four or five times and never bought a gasket. :>) Towards the rear of the openings on both sides of the tractor, you will see the center section, which contains all the valves and the steel tubing going to those valves. The check valves are on the top, the pressure regulators are on the bottom. Now, forward motion is controled by the top check valve on the right side of the tractor and the bottom regulator valve on the left side of the tractor. Reverse is handled by the other two valves: upper check on the left and lower regulator on the right. The check valves are held in place by a plug. Unscrew that large plug, then take a 1/2" bolt with standard thread and screw it into the check valve. Then just pull the thing outta there. Here's the bad part and where I can't be held responsible: My gut wants to tell you to just replace all the check valves and all the regulator valves. However, the check valves cost $240 apiece and the regulators are something like $250 a pop. So, you can see we're dumping a thousand dollars on it by using the blanket approach. So, what I would do if it were my tractor, if I had the patience and the time, is to buy just one check valve and replace it. Throw it all back together, fill it up with oil and give her a try. I'll just bet my wife's pet pig that you'll have drive in that one direction. :>) Good Luck, Allan
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