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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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986 advice

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DJL

07-06-2006 22:29:57




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Hi guys, need a little advice of what to look for:
In 1980 my dad bought an International 986 brand new. I was too young to remember, but dad always complained of that tractor not being right from the get go. He said it never shifted very good (he traded an open station 966 in for it, to get the 86 series cab. Wish I had that tractor back)
Always seemed to grind into gear even at an idle and no longer how long you kept the clutch pushed in. The bigger issue, is he said it never carried much oil pressure on the gauge. He had the sending unit checked and dealer said everything was normal. He had it checked out several times before warranty went out and dealer still assured him everything was normal. We still have the tractor. It's only got 2300 hours on it, and never any hard work. Dad went to no-till corn in 1983, so all it really did was pull a small disk before plating soybeans. Occasionaly pulled a small square hay baler and moved big round bales but that's it. The tractor hasn't been overworked at all! Several years ago, dad noticed that the engine would "clatter"some at first start up, and the pressure gauge was slow in coming up to the 1/4 level, at first sign of clatter dad would rev the engine a bit and the clatter would go away, and gauge would come up a bit faster. Well, I notice it still carries very low oil pressure (about a 1/4 on the gauge and almost in the red when warmed up)Still seems to have the first start up clatter issue. Dad has always used correct viscosity archer oil in it and regular oil changes. The question is: Where do I start. Cosmetically the tractor isn't great. The AC hasn't worked for years so cab is needing foam kit. All the metal is straight, and a good waxing would go along ways. I'd like to get this tractor looking/running good, but not sure how much money I want to throw at it, if something major is wrong with the motor. Also, the TA has never been changed, but i do know for sure that Dad and I both in ignorance used that TA for a jake brake in road gear quite a bit, so I'm concerned about that. Maybe I'm worrying too much, but help me out guys. This tractor isn't going to work for a living, as the farm's in CRP now, but I do want a mechanically sound, and fine looking tractor that I can rely on to run a batwing and do other things with. With only 2300 hours on it, I'd hope to have alot of life left. By the way, the tractor doesn't use oil, and only a little gray smoke at first start up. What do I check, do I run it as is, or is she gonna blow on me?
Thanks
DJL

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K.B.-826

07-07-2006 16:42:01




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 Re: 986 advice in reply to DJL, 07-06-2006 22:29:57  
Get yourself a mechanical guage. I use a regular 100 psi hydraulic guage, a piece of 1/4" hyd hose with female 1/4" NPT fittings on each end, and an adapter to go from 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT. Remove the oil pressure sender from the block, install the adapter, and connect the hose/guage to the adapter. You can buy oil pressure test guage kits at your local auto parts store that come with a guage, a length of hose, and a variety of fittings. Check your oil pressure at full throttle with the engine fully warmed up. I don"t have the specs here in front of me, but I would think you should have at least 50 psi. If so, look for a bad oil pressure sender, bad guage, or bad wiring/dirty connections. We have a 786 at home, that guage never reads above the halfway mark. It"s got almost 9000 hours on the engine and still runs like new, so I don"t worry! Like the other guys said, a full adjustment of your clutch pedal/transmission brake/TA linkage will get that tractor shifting like new. You"ll need a manual to do the adjustments, and you must follow the directions to the letter. Before you adjust, you may want to drop the bottom cover from the speed transmission and check/replace the transmission brake pad, it"s easy to do, and Hy-Capacity makes a ceramic pad that lasts longer. The clatter you hear at start-up is normal. The injection pump has an excess fuel device, controlled by engine oil pressure. Whenever there is no oil pressure, the pump goes to full fuel, which helps in cold starting. The engine clatters because it can"t totally burn all of that fuel. If you think your tractor is bad, try starting a worn-out 30 or 40 series Deere with an inline Bosch pump, they wind up to 2000 RPM and blow the thickest, blackest smoke you"ve ever seen until oil pressure builds. As for your A/C, plan on spending about $1500 to have it fully converted to 134A. That"s the only way to go. If you repair the A/C, you"ll pretty much have to put in a cab kit. Using the TA for engine braking was definetly a huge mistake. That"s the best way to fry the TA brake pack.

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Allan In NE

07-07-2006 04:00:48




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 Re: 986 advice in reply to DJL, 07-06-2006 22:29:57  
DJ,

Had to adjust the tranny brake on my 966 a couple of months ago. One turn of the clevis and you'll think you just bought a new tractor.

All 400 series engines "rattle" until the oil pressure hits that injector pump; I think you are dealing with an electronic gauge problem.

Also, and just for what it is worth, it is amazing to me how these old tractors will respond to a little hard work. It just seems to breath new life in 'em and they simply don't like to be babied.

Allan

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the tractor vet

07-07-2006 06:56:35




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 Re: 986 advice in reply to Allan In NE, 07-07-2006 04:00:48  
Ah , guys ya just don.t go around ad\justing the brake only as this can and will get thing screwed up Ya got to start at the clutch free travel then the trans brake then the dump valve . Now the trans brake is one of them settings that from over the years of ware and tare and sloppieness of linkage one turn to as much as two to take out the slop of woren keyway.



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Hugh MacKay

07-07-2006 02:02:19




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 Re: 986 advice in reply to DJL, 07-06-2006 22:29:57  
DJL: Why not start by adjusting the transmission brake. From there about all I can say is, "If it aint broke don't fix it".



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