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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall 230 and 340 engines??

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230?340?

07-26-2006 00:29:06




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Hello I have a blown motor in a 230. its a 123ci. I was wondering if a motor out of a 340 would work. I have a good 340 parts tractor out back. its a 135ci. Just wondering if the clutch, bell housing, and front section would all work. I can adapt for the linkages and all of that. THanks for the help. Also is there much differences in the 135 appearances to the 123ci.




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Hugh MacKay

07-26-2006 01:50:46




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 Re: Farmall 230 and 340 engines?? in reply to 230?340?, 07-26-2006 00:29:06  
230?340: The 340 engine has the exact same dimensions and bolt pattern as your 230. The 340 being IPTO will have a completely different flywheel, and here is your problem. The 230 flywheel will bolt to the C-135 crank, but the crank is not drilled for the 230 pilot bushing. I understand it can be drilled but that will involve removing crank from the engine, I think.

How close are you to machine shops? You may find someone with equipment that could handle that without removing the crank. I'm sure some shops drill much larger objects than a C-135 engine. Of course you will need to satisfy yourself they are going to get this accurate. I say this as I dislike dismantleing a good working engine.

Now, there are a couple of other options, find a good crank from a 404 as they are C-135 but use the same clutch and flywheel arangement as the 230. Also if your 230 crank and rods are good, they will fit the C-135 engine and you would have cubic inches somewhere in the order of 127.

When all is said and done, I tend to dislike any ideas that involve dismantling your C-135 engine. No two engines are going to have the same degree of wear, thus you are going to get into matching bearings if you change cranks. I wouldn't even like removing crank unless it's for rebuild. If you do remove crank, make sure you mark all bearings so you get them back the same.

I guess the problem here is a case of spending close to same money as it would cost to rebuild your C-123 engine. I think it would be worth the money and effort to drill the C-135 crank. The C-123 was a great little engine in 130, 140, etc., but just a wee bit light on power for the larger tire 230 and 240. I have a 130 and 140, they will run out of traction before they run out of power. I've never owned a SC, 230, etc., but my brother has a 230 and I have used it some. It will run out of power before it runs out of traction, and I've always thought that situation is very hard on engines. I think you will like the C-135 engine in your 230.

Years ago in my hometown ther was an excellent engine rebuilder, just a small country shop and every year he probably rebuilt a dozen Farmalls for local farmers. This man never allowed anyone in his shop while he was assembling an engine. He said, "folks milling about created too much dust and dirt in the air". I've also never known him to turn out a rebuilt engine that failed. He once told my dad that he hated doing C, SC, 200 and 230 as one knew that little engine would not have the same longeviety as it did in the smaller offsets, nor would it wear as well as the larger Farmalls.


John Deere are having the same problem today with their 8000 series articulated tractors dualed up with 20.8x42 tires, not enough engine under the hood. There is even a company, repowering those tractors with larger Cummins engines. I operated two 8000 Deere's this spring and can understand why. All kinds of rear end and transmission, but you can lug it until it dies and never spin a wheel.

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