Hour meter hookup? Tire PSI?

Also a few quick tire questions. My right tire is a tad low. I went to check the psi and some fluid came out. Dad says they used to fillem with anitfreeze for added weight. I would assume they are tubed otherwise the rims would rust out in no time. The tire does not say tubeless, so would it be safe to say its tubed? Also there is a nut on the outside of the rim holding the valvestem to the rim.

In any event, there is no psi rating on the tires that I can see, at least the rear ones. What is the normal PSI rating for these types of tires? (dad says his Silver King was 8-10 psi) Also, just for future reference, what can one expect to pay for a tube for this sort of tire, and how the heck do you unmount it, as the rim doesnt look very substantial around the lip, so crowbars are out of the question. Thanks guys for all the help. Sometime, I'll have more pics of my tractor when I get it running good and get some pics. This winter I plan to paint the tin and maybe the cast iron parts, dunno yet.

18034-
The first one indicated by a dash is just that, the lines to indicate it was running, i originally though it was just between numbers. The next number is the tenths, as it is dark background with white numbers. So either it has 1803 (which is very unlikely considering the condition of the tractor), or 11803 like was mentioned and more likely. Ok, now another question. I would like to get the tach fixed for obvious reasons. If I mark the "scallop" with a marker to know its alignment, can I safely remove the cable without gears falling off and stuff? I'm assuming there is some hex or something the cable end fits into? or is there a gear on the end of the cable? What does one of these cables cost if it turns out to be defective? I'm sure a new tach would be probably 200 or more. If it is the tach, I'll do one of my, its broke anyways, worth a shot to take it apart and try to fix it, which has proven successful on many occasions =)

This messageboard kinda sucks interfacewise. I hate having to retype my name all the time, and there is no post count or profiles or anything like vbulletin. Am I missing something, do I need to register or something?

You should really get a parts book. I like knowing what's in there before I take something apart.

Tubes will run between $45 and $55 bucks for that type of tire.

I would much rather do it myself than haul it to town, even if they broke it for free.

If you don't want to get involved, remove the tach cable from the distributer and see if there is a speedy rotation inside the aluminum housing when the motor is running. If so, you are OK there. If not, pull out the aluminum housing and you will find the little gear (spiral, I think) is stripped.

I think you will find max. psi on those tires is somewhere between 35 and 45, depends a bit on the manufacturer. You will hear recomendations all the way from 8 to 20 psi for operating presure on those tires. The lower psi will give the best traction, but it also breaks side walls. I personally like 14 to 16 psi. You don't have to haul it all home in one load.

I remember once being at a welding shop, and an elderly gentleman came in with his Ford 8N front axle broken in half at the center pivot point. We all knew this man, (Lawerence) and he was known to be very frugal, thus he took a fair bit of ribbing over the broken front axle. The welding shop owner asked, "Lawerence, how did you ever manage to break that front axle." His responce, " I hauled my last two loads of fire wood all home in one load, enough said, now don't ask anymore questions, just weld the axle."

What you are calling an hour meter is a tachometer with an engine revolution odometer. It is geared to display approximate engine hours. Your 'hour meter' is not working because the tach cable is busted or fitted with the wrong ends. The problem might also be internal with the tach or the aluminum assembly I mentioned earlier. Start troubling shooting by disconnecting the cable from the tach and see if the inner cable rotates smoothly with the engine running. If that checks out, hold something like an eight penny nail to the back of the tach and spin the nail both ways with your thumb and forefinger. The needle should bounce around to an indicated 200-300 rpm. If that is OK then your tach drive (aluminum piece I mentioned in first paragraph) is no good. Take it off the distributer and inspect.