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IH #1300 sickle mower

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Dan Robertson

08-30-2006 04:47:23

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I broke the main beam that the guards bolt to, and supports the knife yesterday. The break occurred under the wobbler gearbox and through the right side/ outboard mounting hole in the main beam. ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS HAPPEN TO THEM?? Best way to repair? Can this be weld repaired? Can the beam be shortened from it's present 7', and redrilled to mount??
BTW--- this happened as I was slowly mowing tall overgrowth along a creek bank. The end of the cutter bar caught in the bank of a small ditch running into the creek. As I started to back up, and lift the mower blade at the same time the main beam made a loud snap and shifted forward binding the mower knife. I knew the mower had a break away mechanism to the rear, but never dreamed that this backing up action would snap the main beam letting it move forward. Any help, advice, words of wisdom, been there done that, etc. is greatly appreciated. Dan Robertson

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R. John Johnson

08-31-2006 08:41:13

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to Dan Robertson, 08-30-2006 04:47:23

For what its worth. Broken bars on IH balanced head mowers are a part of life. There is a stress riser, in the form of the notch, at the point of maximum stress. After running them on this farm for over 40 years we have a pile of old broken bars. Like other posters said, they break again beside the weld. If you redrill, it may not cut right since the register of the knife may be wrong. A new bar is the most effective fix.

A local dealer here sells Rowse parts and says he has a fix. Rowse now builds the old IH mowers. They have widened out the inner shoe to add more support to the cutter bar. He claims that this will all but eliminate cracking of the bar. I don't know if this is true or not, but I bought one to try next year.

John

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R. John Johnson

08-31-2006 11:30:05

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to R. John Johnson, 08-31-2006 08:41:13

Ooops! I meant the one bolt hole, not the notch. The ones I have had break always crack out through the hole.

John

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Janicholson

08-30-2006 10:30:01

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to Dan Robertson, 08-30-2006 04:47:23

Welding the business end will break again as noted below. Welding an extension to the tip will work because there is only a tiny fraction of the force applied to it there. It might take some thinking and machining to accomodate the extension, but it would not need to be as hard a material. Many of the bars are tapered from mount to divider board, so the mount and taper might be important. Good luck, JimN

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ejr-IA.

08-30-2006 10:19:46

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to Dan Robertson, 08-30-2006 04:47:23

I have broken the bars too.New ones are around 600 bucks or more now.I ended up finding another mower for parts.Those bars are made out of tough stuff you could try makeing it shorter.

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Steven@AZ

08-30-2006 08:27:32

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to Dan Robertson, 08-30-2006 04:47:23

My experience has been that welding in that spot will not hold.

Re-drill and have a shorter bar or buy a new bar.

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Bob

08-30-2006 06:50:40

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to Dan Robertson, 08-30-2006 04:47:23

It's not unusual for a "cutterbar" (yes, that's the name for the part the guards bolt to) to fatigue and snap off.

A local blacksmith welds them with some type of chromium rod, but they often break again, next to the weld.

Last year, I was looking for a used IH mower to mow roadsides, and one of the ones I looked at had broken, like yours, and the guy had re-drilled mounting holes, and reattached it to the mower, now being an odd, shorter length.

It looked good, but I did not buy it, as I wanted the full 9' length for the road mowing.

So, your options are an attempt at welding it, shortening it up, if that will work on your mower, or replacing it with a used or $$$$ new cutterbar.

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Dan Robertson

08-30-2006 18:20:07

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Re: IH #1300 sickle mower in reply to Bob, 08-30-2006 06:50:40

Thanks for the replies. I tore into the mower today, and decided that likely the best fix is to shorten the cutter bar 6" and redrill the mounting holes. This thing was broken over time about 2/3rds of the way thru from the back side. I just finished it off yesterday.
Dan Robertson

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