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Michael - Your best bet is to locate a transmission PTO and hydraulic pump for your truck. It’ll be the fastest cycling and most trouble-free way to run your bale hoist. However if you will be using the 12 volt hydraulic power pack here’s a few thoughts. ---- Forget about using the 6 volt generator to run the hoist! The stock 6 volt generator is likely rated for 35 amps or so max (approx 250 watts). It’s working close to it’s limit just firing the ignition and keeping the battery charged. Even by bumping it to 12 volts the old generator will lack the power required to run the hydraulic power pack for your bale lift. Likewise forget about using multiple batteries with a series-parallel switch, etc. 12 volt/6 volt S-P switches are expensive (when you can find one…), are troublesome to wire and tend to have reliability issues. My recommendation then is to convert the truck to 12 volt with an alternator. Having converted several myself over the years below are a few tip: 1 – Use the highest output alternator you can fit. Suggest a minimum of 60 amps – 90 to 100+ amps is preferred – especially if you plan to cycle the hydraulic pump more than once every 5 minutes or so. 2 – Forget about a 1-wire alternator! These tend to have issues with shutdown current leakage (ie. dead battery if the vehicle sits idle very long). They also have startup “turn on” problems. A standard 3-wire alternator – while requiring a few more feet of wire to install – do not have these problems. Also 3-wire alternators are cheaper to buy! 3 – Recommend bypassing the existing dashboard ammeter – the ammeter and wiring are inadequate for the high current from an alternator. Instead run a heavy wire (#8 or #6 recommended) direct from the alternator output stud to the + side of the battery or starter solenoid. Install a dash-mounted voltmeter to monitor the electrical system. 4 – Converting the rest of the electrical system to 12 volt is not difficult. You’ll need to: -Install a ballast resister in series with the coil primary -Swap out all light bulbs (don’t forget the instrument panel lamps!). -If the dash gages are mechanical you need do nothing. If they are thermal/electric type (gage hands move slowly into position when the key is turned on) they have their own internal regulator – they should work fine on 12 volts. However if you are concerned you can install a “gage dropping resistor” (try JC Whitney) in series with the gage feed. -If you have an electric 2 speed the differential shifter will work fine on 12 volts (will actually shift BETTER than it does on 6 volts!). But you should add a dropping resistor in series with the speedometer shifter to keep the shifter coil from overheating. - Do nothing with heater motor and wiper motor (if electric wipers). These will work fine as if you don’t run them on their highest speed setting.
-And of course you’ll need to install the battery with the negative terminal grounded (VERY important!) 5 – Use a battery with the largest CCA rating you can afford. Or better yet install (2) high CCA batteries connected in parallel. ---- Good luck, and hope something here helps...
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