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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Primer Question

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trw

11-20-2006 19:44:43




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It looks like I will be using the IH 2150 paint for my tractor. How about the primer? Does Case/IH have some good stuff or should I find some someplace else? I suppose it would have to be a certain kind so it would be compatible with the paint. Also, can I or do I, need to put hardener in the 2150 paint?




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NDS

11-21-2006 06:21:36




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to trw, 11-20-2006 19:44:43  
Priming tractor is probaly a good idea however in my 60 years of being around IH tractors and equipment I have never seen any evidence of primer under original paint. May be there but I have not seen it.



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CNKS

11-21-2006 07:23:16




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to NDS, 11-21-2006 06:21:36  
IH did not use primer -- the original alkyd enamel, which is still sold, does not require it. That does not mean the paint will not adhere to the primer better than it does to the metal, though. Modern paints require primer or they will not adhere well. Whether or not 2150 is a "modern" paint is subject to question. It is an "acrylic modified" alkyd enamel, that is it has some acrylic properties. It should be used over primer, that may or may not mean it will fall off without it. But, since priming is the easiest operation of the whole procedure, there is no reason not to use it. The best way is to use epoxy, followed by a sandable surfacer on the sheet metal -- that will produce the smoothest finish.

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GordoSD

11-21-2006 05:55:28




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to trw, 11-20-2006 19:44:43  
I tried the IH primer and it was a disaster. Took WEEKS for it to totally dry. Was too hard to sand when it did get dry. Best to use a good epoxy primer on all the cast metal. And the wheel rims, prior to doing your fill and sand with regular primer.Any good primer-sufacer on the tin that you will be doing the body work on.

Gordo



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Nebraska Cowman

11-21-2006 04:41:19




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to trw, 11-20-2006 19:44:43  
I don't use primer



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GordoSD

11-21-2006 09:43:56




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 11-21-2006 04:41:19  
How do you smooth out the dents and bumps and pits in the tin? How do you get an old rim thats got serious rust pitting in it ready for paint?

Gordo



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CNKS

11-21-2006 14:42:35




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to GordoSD, 11-21-2006 09:43:56  
Sandblast the rim. If it still looks sound, you can use body filler or some two part putty to fill the pits. I sometimes use JB weld on areas I consider too deep for filler. It does not sand easily but it can be done. Dents in sheet metal can be lightly hammered (dollies, etc are best, I don't have any). Bring the dent to within 1/8-1/16 of the surface, use body filler, sand, repeat if necessary. I try to not to apply filler more than 1/16 inch thick, it is more or less permanent at that thickness and won't fall out. Use a single part putty over the filler to fill pinholes, etc in the filler, prime with epoxy primer followed by a sandable surfacer, repeat the surfacer if necessary, then topcoat. Done right the repair is invisible.

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GordoSD

11-22-2006 06:14:48




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to CNKS, 11-21-2006 14:42:35  
CNKS, your methods for metal prep are textbook correct, and can produce much better than original
paintwork.

Gordo



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Nebraska Cowman

11-21-2006 12:50:27




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to GordoSD, 11-21-2006 09:43:56  
I don't. I start with the best I can find and don't use filler. Of course we don't have too much trouble with pitting here. I don't know what I'd do if I lived where stuff rusts badly. Maybe move?



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CNKS

11-20-2006 20:03:18




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to trw, 11-20-2006 19:44:43  
I don't use Case-IH 2150, if I did I would use epoxy primer on all, and a sandable surfacer or primer surfacer over the epoxy on the sheet metal to assure a smooth finish. Both of those products will cost more than the 2150 itself. But the Case-IH primer is ok. Epoxy adheres to the metal better and is waterproof, thus it gives corrosion protection. Both the epoxy and surfacer are likely compatible with 2150, I can't say for sure because I haven't actually done it. But, I would have no hesitation if I ever decide to use it. As to hardener, don't use it unless you have a supplied air system, a charcoal mask is not adequate protection. The isocyanates in the hardener can make you very sick.

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Patrick Martin

11-21-2006 03:46:07




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 Re: Primer Question in reply to CNKS, 11-20-2006 20:03:18  
I've ben using a industrial cold galvanize primer. It's a heavy solid primer composed primarily of zinc. Figure it'd be good to prevent rust. LPS makes it.



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