Dirty Oil

Sludge in tractors like these is usually the result of water (from condensation) mixing with the oil. "Synthetic oils" (and fake synthetic oil) are much more resistant to the formation of sludge from heat or water contamination.

There are lots and lots of things in this ol' world that just simply aren't so and the need to be changin' the oil every fifteen minutes is one those things.

It is amazing to me how the marketing media can lead people around by just tuggin' on their ear a little. :>)

Allan

While I agree that every 3,000 miles may be too short of a duration, one of the main causes of sludge is driving in town, 10 minute driving where your engine does not reach sufficient operating temperatures.

Seem awefully funny that nearly EVERYONE changes there oil regularly. From professionals, to certified mechanics, to engine engineers themselves...
Bottom line is there is no way that oil after 50,000 miles is as good as fresh oil, simply no way it is.
There has been times i've gone 5,000 between oil changes. I change my own oil and see what comes out of the pan, it just cant be good I'm telling ya.

Oh well, its fun having these discussion, after all its "discussion forums"

Geez, give me little credit, will ya? =)

Well, I pulled the pan. The pickup for the oil pump was COMPLETELY clogged with sludge and it could not pick up the oil and starved it. The result is, I have been snake bit with this cleaning stuff. If I even thought about doing it any more, I think I would pull the valve covers and the pan and steam clean everything and then blow it out with air and still not be happy with it.

TW

When I was in school for auto mechanics one of our instructors told us about people who change to new brands of oil....won't name the brand, but it rhymes with "Tenzoil"....anyway, the story was that this brand of oil contained a detergent that would "clean" the inside of an engine. Supposedly when this was done the engine would self-destruct shortly afterwards due to the sludge that was broken loose clogging various passages and especially the pickup screen for the oil pump. He said that it's fine if a person wants to use that brand of oil if you start out using it when the engine's new, but it shouldn't be put in an engine that's spent it's whole life with other non-detergent brands.

Disclaimer- I've never experienced this, just what I was told by a knowledgable teacher.

If I had a new car, I would run mobil 1, as its one of the cleanest oils out there..

5 quarts of oil and a filter is cheaper then a set of bearings and turning a crank.

This is NOT a good idea at all. Doing this can break big sludge apart in the head and end up clogging the return ports for the oil to drain back into the oil pan. If you do decide to do something like this, be sure to pull the valve cover too and ensure that no big chunks are there to dislodge and block return ports. Also make sure you keep an eye on oil pressure.
As for how long to run the engine with the solution it it, well I dont know. I'd surmise that u want the engine warm when you drain and put this solution in, then run it for 5-10 minutes while its hot and then change oil. Idealy another oil change withing several hours would be advised as the first draining is not going to get rid of all of the kerosene, deisel. Dont foget after the flush to change the filter as well, as it will probably be pretty much toast and the oil pump screen will probably need cleaned as well..

On my 4.3l s-10 motor, I took the intake off, the oil pain, the valve covers and removed all the sludge I could by hand, then I used about 10 cans of carb cleaner to flush the sludge down into the oil pan and did the same to the bottom of the block, then I let it sit for a day to dry out, then I rfuilled it up and everything was good.

Take this advise as a guide, not instructions. I wont be liable for anything and use common sense. I'm sure others can also gie you better details about this procedure, as I have neveractually done it. The idea of running diluted oil in any engine just bothers me...

I myself do recommend that you run a cleaner but only after you clean the pan and oil screen and ONLY about half a quart or a quart. Once that's done I'd drain it again and refill with fresh non-detergerent oil. Run again off and on for another week and drail and flush again. I just did this with a 100 that was FULL of grunge and all sorts of crap. I can't stand to have a dirty engine.