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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum

Which 3-point hitches will work on my M?

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Blue3992

12-03-2006 11:54:59

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I've been looking at putting a 3-point hitch on my M. Crusing around E-bay, I see a lot of hitches, but I'm not sure which ones are compatible with my M.

As near as I can figure, a hitch that came off of a H, Super H, Super M, 300, 350, 400, and 450 will all fit my tractor.

Will a hitch that came off of a row-crop tractor fit my M? I'm guessing that it won't, the row crop hitches I've seen look a lot different than a standard hitch.

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Tom Windsor

12-04-2006 14:13:48

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to Blue3992, 12-03-2006 11:54:59

Look at the 3 pointer I have posted on the web side on December 4

It is a Saganaw

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Rustyfarmall

12-03-2006 13:30:52

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to Blue3992, 12-03-2006 11:54:59

The M was never offered with a 2 point or 3 point hitch. A 2 point hitch would be very difficult if not impossible to adapt. 3 point aftermarket hitches are available for your M that can be attached fairly easily, and are still available brand new. I think this site may have new 3 point hitches available, and several other dealers have them also. Check out the prices on the new units before you pay too much for a pile of junk on ebay. Also, the add on 3 point hitches do not work as well as the 3 point on a tractor that was factory equipped. Depending on what the 3 point will be used for, you might be better off to trade the M for a newer tractor with a factory 3 point.

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glennster

12-03-2006 13:28:23

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to Blue3992, 12-03-2006 11:54:59

i bought a 3pt for my m from saginaw county tractor parts in new lothrop michigan. they custom build 3 points for old tractors. mine was 675.00. it is a beautiful piece of machinery, high quality stuff. they can be set up for one or two way hydraulics, and by removing 2 pins the hitch releases the lift arms so you dont apply down pressure, nice for the bush hog. they also bolt right on and you dont remove the origional hitch.

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Blue3992

12-03-2006 13:07:43

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to Blue3992, 12-03-2006 11:54:59

Here's a couple of EBay items that illustrate what I'm talking about:

140058031108 2 point hitch from a row crop tractor

190058472124 3 point hitch

It seems like the difference is how they mount to the tractor. That first item looks like it bolts up "underneath" the tractor, while the second one bolts up to the rear axle.

I always thought "row crop" was some sort of special designation?

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City-Boy McCoy

12-03-2006 13:27:28

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to Blue3992, 12-03-2006 13:07:43

Okay - got it. The two point was the factory IH version of what IH thought was a better hitch system than the 3-point. And, it was better. However, they were too late coming to the party. The 3-point already had received such wide acceptance, it had become the industry standard, and the 2-point died for a lack of support and the fact it required specially made 2-point implements, which only IH made. Everybody made/makes 3-point implements and they all fit about any brand of tractor. If you are going to actually work your tractor, a 3-point system is the way to go - unless you know where there are a whole bunch of original IH 2-point implements lying around in good shape.
If you already had a 2-point system on your tractor, it is easy to convert to 3-point. If you don't already have a 2-point system, then why bother - just buy the 3-point system and go with it.
An M is a row crop tractor. Hope this helps you.
mike

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City-Boy McCoy

12-03-2006 12:47:43

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to Blue3992, 12-03-2006 11:54:59

Blue:
An M IS a row crop tractor. Help me understand what you mean, please.
mike

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john d

12-03-2006 16:41:29

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to City-Boy McCoy, 12-03-2006 12:47:43

"Row-crop" is a general term that usually applies to the narrow-front types of tractors that were the most common where row-crops such as corn and soybeans, as well as other crops like cotton were grown. The tractors typically have two front wheels very close together. A somewhat less common type has one front wheel.
This design was utilized throughout the corn belt because it allowed the tractor to cultivate corn with front-mount cultivators until the corn was too high to clear under the rear axle. Corn cultivation to that height was usual practice before herbicides were in common use. The narrow front also allowed the use of a mounted corn picker.
Row-crop tractors were common through the midwest and corn belt in general. Except for Fords and utility versions of other brands, I don't remember ever seeing a tractor in central Indiana with a wide front before 1960 or so.
Regarding the 3pt hitch, don't try to adapt one made for another tractor.

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CNKS

12-03-2006 17:32:03

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to john d, 12-03-2006 16:41:29

NF or single wheel fronts were more common on row crop tractors (you can't buy that configuration now) but adjustable wide fronts were available for virtually all makes and models that were row crops. What makes a row crop is not the configuration, but adjustable axles for different row widths. The H and M were available with all 3 front ends from 1939 up. The single front actually makes the tractor a vegetable tractor, as most vegetables are/were grown in narrow rows. The NF was really for the 40 inch rows which were common for corn, etc when the tractors were built in the 40's-50's. Many NF's were used in the 60's and early 70's, not sure when they died a slow death.

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Mel Stout

12-03-2006 18:07:33

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Re: Which 3-point hitches will work on my M? in reply to CNKS, 12-03-2006 17:32:03

Right. And from what I recall helping my Dad on the farm in the 50's and 60's with the sooped up M, the narrow front allowed you to turn 180's and 90's better by locking one of the breaks and turning (and without catching a front wheel in a fence or ditch). That was the major reason for the swinging drawbar for wheelless equipment. For a wheeled disc you picked it up (with the lift all), turned a 180, and layed it down all while full throttle. Great fun to see how close you could get and how smooth you could make the turn. The better you could make the turns and the more straight you could make your passes the shorter time it took to cover a field.

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