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Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!!

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JayWalt

12-12-2006 19:46:41

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When I first took the voluntary layoff at work I knew I wouldnt be working much outside because of the cold. Well the last week has been in the 50s!! so I been working on my tractor. Installed my hydraulic selector valves to share one of the stock IH touch controls with the loader bucket dump and the rear hitch. Here's some picture of it installed:

You may be asking why all the funky 45's and 90s. Well I had to work with what I had, which was slightly longer then necessary hydraulic hoses going under the toolbox, and slightly ahorter then necessary hoses from the touch control valve. After That, I decided to work on my drawbar/3 pt hitch conversion. As some of you recall I wanted to do this...

Well here is the end result..

Here is a closer shot of one. You can see the side gussets, which are 1/4" thick plate.

Here is the gusset underneath, it is 5/16 plate,

It's hard to see the welds. I have been getting alot better at stick welding, better penetration and better looking end results. I've learned to concentrate the arc on the thicker peice of metal, directing the rod more towards it and let it penetrate, then draw in the smaller metal. Sometimes the gun gets in an awkward position and welding become a total pain. It's hard to see in my picture as I havent cleaned them up. The actual box stock is really 2 C-channel peices welded togethr by me. It is 5/16th wall C-channel and should work fine with such a short length. I'm not plowing, just dragging a blade. Instead of using pins like a conventional 3pt, I'm using 1" bolts to facilitate hooking them up without being able to spread the links. The top link will be a heavy duty turnbuckle. Comments are welcome, just dont be too critical, I'm working with what I have. I think its cool having a drawbar and a modified 3 pt in one setup.

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gab

12-13-2006 17:35:06

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-12-2006 19:46:41

If the picture works, this is how I did it and I still have the clean 60 dollar draw bar leaning on the tire. This is 2x4 tubing slid over a couple of points from a plow. Jim

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Steven@AZ

12-13-2006 06:02:54

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-12-2006 19:46:41

I think you did a nice job of modifying your tractor to work for you! Some people think my H is cobbled up with my belt-driven live hydraulics and power steering, but it does the job I need it to do for far less $$ than a newer tractor.

Again, good job - just get some paint on there and it will look better...

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JayWalt

12-13-2006 07:06:53

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to Steven@AZ, 12-13-2006 06:02:54

I plan on doing the same for a hydraulic pump if mine ever fails and I cant find a reasonably priced replacement. Do you have any pics of your setup? I'm not sure if I should use a dual pulley or just a longer belt. Using a longer belt would leave the pump pulley with less contact area on the belt, while a dedicated belt would be less likely to slip. While our tractors arent identical, some pics would be awesome!!

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Steven@AZ

12-13-2006 07:16:10

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-13-2006 07:06:53

I think this is all I have of the hydraulic setup... if you were originally equipped with the distributor drive pump, I would replace it - I can only develop about 900 psi with this, a cogged belt would work better (similar to timing belt)...

Crank pulley:
third party image
Pump/mount:

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Nat 2

12-13-2006 04:57:00

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-12-2006 19:46:41

One question: How do you spread the 3pt arms to get them over the pins on the implement? With separate fast hitch points you would slip them over the pins on the implement, then back into them, but this way you're very limited on what implements you can use. There are a few with removable pins in a "yoke," but most have rigid pins bolted to a single flat plate. Removing the rigid pins and using bolts or hitch pins will introduce a lot of shucking and slop to the mix, potentially making the equipment unusable.

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JayWalt

12-13-2006 07:03:13

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to Nat 2, 12-13-2006 04:57:00

I'm not using the pins, I'm using 1 inch bolts and washers in between the link and implement to allow pivoting. It's not ideal and will take a little longer to hookup, but as of now with only one implement, it's not a big deal.

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Brownie 45

12-13-2006 04:01:43

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-12-2006 19:46:41

Lots of satisfaction in getting a piece of useful equiptment out of "on-hand" parts. Just hope the fittings[45's] aren't chineese. We had a 1/2" pipe coupler blow on the hydraulic auger on the bean wagon last spring. It was a chinese fitting & just split wide apart. Your project reminds me of the cable layer that we built to put in electrical cable. Used material that we had on hand, & ended up with a good unit. I love to use gussets also.

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JayWalt

12-12-2006 21:38:42

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-12-2006 19:46:41

$$$ is the name of the game. 1X3 flat stock is $$$ around here. Probly $30 at the very least, depending on length. The valves are not cheap, going for 100+ a valve from the ones I've seen. I got these 2 selector vavles for $17 for both of them on clearance at TSC (was $67, marked down to $7.99!!!) It's all about being cheap. I had all this stuff laying around, so I did it. It may not be the best way to do it, but considering what I have, and not wanting to spend mney, I dont think I did half bad. I've seen alot more rigged and halfass setups then this. When I get the blade on and the points dont get ripped off, I'll consider it a success.
I dont have a torch (there 200+ with tank lease and fillup), no vocational schools or anything for them to do me some fabbing for free, nothing around here. None of the damn scrapyards around here let you buy stuff from them, even if you pay them what they get for the steel. They dont want the liabilty of someoe getting hurt while digging through the piles. I've called all scrapyards withing 20 miles to no avail. If I had the correct tools, machines, and metal stock, I would have made a set of lower link forks, but this will have to do. When I get a second implement (I dont know what I would need tho), then I might consider a different setup. The drawbar is far from wasted, cut the pieces off and grindem flat and the drawbar is as good as it was. Nobody welded the drawbar in there, but its bent out and is a PITA to get in and out.

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Wardner

12-12-2006 21:18:56

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Re: Worked on my 300u today!! Pics Inside!! in reply to JayWalt, 12-12-2006 19:46:41

Well, what can I say. It is not the way I would have done things but then I don't own a utility.

First, why the new valves? You could have piggy-backed IH valves on your existing IH valve. Those valves are available. I must have 20 or more on a shelf. They also pop up an eBay frequently. It really pays to own a parts book so you can see different layouts and identify the valve you need.

Second, why use your tractor to practice welding? Wouldn't you feel better destroying your truck? Why waste a $50-$60 fast hitch drawbar when you could have made a pair of fast hitch points with a one inch hole at the end of the bar. Did somebody weld your draw bar to its sockets?

To make fast hitch points, you start with about three or four feet of 1"x 3" flat bar. If you don't have access to a torch, get the Voke kids to make them on their pantograph or optical guide or computer controlled cutting torch. Heck, a hand held torch will also do the job but may require a little grinding afterwords.

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