H/ Rotella Oil?

I know, that the head channels, the pump pickup and the pan are clean and free of sludge. That leaves the block itself as a repository for sludge. I was thinking that I would put 30 weight rotella oil in it, monitor the oil pressure, and after running a while, change oil and filter, drop the pan and check the oil pickup, and then convert to full HD 30 weight oil.

It seems to me that this would be acceptable...are there any down sides that I should be thinking about?

TW

Paul

BTW, no such thing as "non detergent" oil anymore. Even "non-detergent" CaseIH Low Ash has detergents in it.

TW

you've had the head off it's not going to be to allfully dirty.
Put the good oil to her an let"R" run.She'll never complain??

Bill

Now use a little logic....what country folks call horse sense.

The motor oils sold today, are the finest ever made. True some have had certain additives removed that may affect flat tappet cams in older engines. Just know which oils lack these additives and avoid them..duh! But, Rotella and Delo all contain the necessary goodies to keep any engine alive and healthy.

As for detergents cutting out sludge and clogging pickups.....I have yet to see this occur. The detergents don't act like instant solvents and wash all sludge from the engine overnight..another duh! More than anything....detergents tend to SLOW the formation of sludge in engines and IF the oil is changed on a semi regular basis, sludge doesn't build up because the junk is kept in suspension and drained with the oil.

Whatever kind of engine you are running...built yesterday or 60 years ago....use the most modern lubricants available. Change the oil when you feel guilty..if that is every 10 hours or every 500. I tend to follow what the maker suggests...they ought to know. Before you counter that the maker suggested straight 30 weight motor oil.....well..duh! They didn't have HD oils in 1948...no wonder they didn't suggest their use! Had those oils been available...the maker most assuredly would have recommended their use.

You choose what brand oil you like....there isn't much difference in any of them..Valvoline, Shell, Mobil, Havoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc., etc. They all make a quality product and none of them contain a magic ingredient to stop oil burning or leaks, repair noisy lifters or fix worn bearings.

Buy good oil, change it and the filter on a regular basis and get over it.

Do you think that HD motor oil was solely responsible for causing the crud in the engine to let go and clog the pick up? Hmmm.

I have never seen it happen....but I have learned to never say never. Could it possibly be that some crud just finally broke loose...man it would have had to be an engineful....and suddenly clogged the pickup OR that the pickup had by and by became clogged and finally choked?

I cleaned out an old JD 430 once that had been severely mistreated. I doubt the oil had been changed in 25 years....no kidding. I purposely filled the engine with diesel fuel and ran it to clean the junk out. It kept coming out black for 5 changes....never did clog anything. I finally filled her with oil and ran it for maybe 20 hours and changed it again and forgot about it. Never did see the attraction of those 2 bangers....a POS when built and still a POS all these years later! And yes, I run green tractors! Had I been farming in the 50's, my tractors would have been orange.

I live in Greenup County and spent 27 years as a railroad engineer for CSX. I worked around the locomotive shops for many of those years. They had a lab on the pit where the engines were serviced and the oil was NEVER changed in those locomotives..EVER. They take an oil sample everytime the engine comes on the pit and it gets analyzed. They check for water content, bearing material, fuel contamination, etc. If any of these things show up..it reveals the health of the diesel engine. Those engines use a lot of oil and they always being topped up...which adds fresh oil (new additives) and that's just how it is. These are multimillion dollar machines and they get top maintinence...but that doesn't require frequent oil changes. Anyway, the chemist in the lab analyzed several different branded motor oils one day to see what the difference was between them. Not enough to amount to any difference. if brand A contained 2% of a certain additive..brand B contained 2.5% and so forth. They are basically formulated the same. The conclusion was to buy whatever was on sale and forget the brand. Just change it regularly. I have gone to pure synthetics because I hate to change oil. I change mine once a year regardless of the mileage. Works for me. I do keep John Deere brand oil in my new JD tractor because it's under warranty...when it runs out...I'll feed it Rotella. I'll not give them any reason to renege on the warranty if the engine lets go.