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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall MD questions

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S_Timm

02-07-2007 09:59:17




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Im lucky enough to have a tractor from each great grandpa that they purchased new. The first is a 1923 case 12-20 that is finally restored. Now I want to get at the other, a 1941 Farmall MD. My dad says he will help with the cosmetics if I get it mechanically ready. two small things I have questions about are the rear main is failing. and second, clutch adjustment. I have heard that the rear main on a M is like a rope that you feed in to the retainer by droping the oil pan and loosening the rear main bearings to give the crank some play. Is there anyone who has done this? Secondly clutch adjustmentin the books says its external on the rod to the pedal. Others have told me it is adjustableon the pressure plate to compensate lineing wear. Which would save me splitting the tractor for a clutch and rear main. It was major overhauled in the early 80's and I can'tbelieve it was put together with a worn out clutch. Any help would be appreciated!

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S_timm

02-07-2007 19:50:16




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 Re: Farmall MD questions in reply to S_Timm, 02-07-2007 09:59:17  
is there any way to tell if it is a neoprene seal or the rope seal without dropping the pan or splitting? I remember my grandpa telling me he wished that when it was rebuilt it had the earlier style injection pump, and upon cleaning the tractor (first time since about 1960 maybe?)it has yellow paint on the block and the arm which engages the pump is shortened. Maybe it was some sort of crate engine. If its a real mess and money pit It might just get parked again as a "someday" project.

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D Slater

02-08-2007 07:07:08




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 Re: Farmall MD questions in reply to S_timm, 02-07-2007 19:50:16  
Don't think you can tell without looking,May have an idea if engine was replaced if you can post cast # of block and engine serial # if it has one. Block cast # most times is in area at rear of injection pump,most times lower than pump but not always. Be a 4 digit # with letter sufix or if replaced may be 6 digit with R1 to R5 on end. Engine size and serial # is on left front of block below head, stamped in.

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D Slater

02-07-2007 11:04:24




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 Re: Farmall MD questions in reply to S_Timm, 02-07-2007 09:59:17  
Your tractor came with a 2 piece rope seal. If it was updated sometime it may have the 2 piece neopream seal,or its made from similiar material. Seals are in there own retainers and to do a good job of replacing seals the flywheel and oil pan needs removed. If seal retainers were updated they have a 6 digit # on them ending in R1.



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n9lhm

02-07-2007 10:51:27




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 Re: Farmall MD questions in reply to S_Timm, 02-07-2007 09:59:17  
You don"t have to split the tractor to service the clutch. It drops out easily through the Lift-All pump hole, although you will obviously have to remove the pump first if it has one.



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Brad in WI

02-07-2007 10:23:50




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 Re: Farmall MD questions in reply to S_Timm, 02-07-2007 09:59:17  
Not all M's and MD's had the rope style rear seal. If I remember correctly it is a one piece style that requires splitting the tractor and pulling the crank. Maybe someone else can clear up this for you better.



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Janicholson

02-07-2007 10:09:21




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 Re: Farmall MD questions in reply to S_Timm, 02-07-2007 09:59:17  
Clutch adjustment is first done on the outside linkage. Freeplay (meaning: pedal can move without much pressure)between operator platform and clutch arm where it touches should be at an inch or close to it. Main seal may require split, But I am not sure. JimN



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