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Thanks for the reply, Jim. The key switch (old and new) does have a spring loaded return from start to run. I think the problem is that the later molds don't have the ST mark, they must assume that we know the unmarked one is the starter. Other that this missing ST molded on the center post, they are identical. I have a generator with a charge indicator rather than an alternator. The charge indicator was bypassed when I got it by the PO wiring the red leads in and out of the charge indicator together along with the red lead from the 8 pin connector to the BAT terminal. I am told it ran like this for a few years and last fall until it wouldn't start this year. It was thought mice got into the wiring. I wired it all back to the way it's shown on the schematic and I've traced most everything down and tightened/cleaned all contacts. I'm missing the inline fuse and holder between the light and dark green leads off of the 8 pin connector. I'll need to replace that, I guess. Can i use a modern standard plastic bladed fuse and holder? That's what I was planning on but I can use a glass barrel. I saw a starter safety switch on the schematic and finally traced it down last night under the rear fender where it senses the position of the PTO lever. There are two wires that are part of the starting circuit, orange and orange/black. Both were off of the switch. One of the wires was broken off back by the PTO with half laying on the PTO and the broken end was riding on the metal body. I'll need to rewire that too. I wonder if this is what shut it down. Does it need this contact to start? No indication if it's normally open or normally closed. If all this doesn't work, I'll need to find a new charge indicator. I did notice that the insulating laminate on the back of the charging indicator was cracked by the screw terminal and ready to fall off so i guess I'll install something to insulate that before springing for another one. Good thing I didn't pay much for this, I'm getting a lot of time in it. thanks for the help.
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