Owen Aaland/Tractor Vet

I had replaced the goofy thing when I bought the tractor 3 years ago and just used a generic roll pin.

You guessed it; it sheared again.

What do you guys use in there? That's kind of a dirty job and I don't wanna have to do it again. :>(

Thanks,

Allan

If the holes are worn to much for the original style pin I use a roll pin but I always put a second pin inside to make it stronger. It also tend to spread the first pin and make it tighter in the holes. I also run a wire through the inside pin to help keep the pins from coming out. If the roll pins are too long this isn't as effective. You can't get the wire tight against the coupler and the pins will move and break the wire. You can also try a hose worm drive clamp at this point but you're really starting to fight a losing battle.

If the tappered groove pin and the double roll pins no longer will stay in place, you are to the point where you are going to have to drill it oversize. Sometimes you get to the point where you have to a bolt but I don't like doing that. The tappered pin and the roll pin are both friction fit fasteners designed to maintain the connection with no movement between parts. A bolt is by design at best a slip fit and the coupler it too strong to deform with the size bolt you can use so you end up with a connection that already has some movement in it so the holes continue to wear. On the other hand, by this point, both the couple and shaft are worn beyond their usable limits so a bolt may add a little more life before replacing.

The end of the line comes when you when you weld the coupler to the shaft. I've only seen that done once.

On my 1066 i used a spring rolle pin. The pin is a hard steel, it is a tight fit and holds tight. you should be able to get one a parts store. If you can't find one let me know and I will send you one.

Jon Olson