Farmall 230 Clutch Problems

If the release bearing was new in 2006, very unlikely that is the problem. The linkage to the release bearing could be screwed up. I've seen the release bearing holder turn 1/4 turn on linkage and linkage will touch presure plate almost at point of clutch release. The linkage touching presure plate will growl, maybe even twist up the linkage. You can see this problem from the lower inspection hole. Best to watch it with someone on clutch and another on hand crank.

Now, if release bearing was new in 2006, and if the linkage is in good shape, and I include in that linkage all three fingers hitting release bearing at same time, clutch adjustment should eliminate the problem. If not then the problem has to be pilot bushing.

If you didn't replace the release bearing and pilot bushing, then you best split the tractor.

I'm also assuming you didn't do something stupid like I did once. I was changing the clutch in my 130, same basic set up. Just as I had wires, fuel line, hydraulic lines, etc. all undone, in walk three helpful friends. In 1 hour 25 min, we had split the tractor, installed all the new parts, and had it back together, ready for me to hook up wiring etc. In the end I could not get clutch adjustment or release. One of my good friends had picked up the clutch disc and laid it down opposite side up, while I was out at truck getting my new parts. This caused me to put the clutch disc in backwards. Next time it took me 4 hours all by myself, however I took time to make sure it was right.

My brother has a 230, and just last year he had the pilot bushing bind up. Tractor hadn't been apart for 10 years. His clutch was working well, and while plowing snow he noticed shifting problems, particularly after tractor had been left idling in neutral. The pilot bushing alone cured his problems. I personally never had a pilot bushing give trouble on these smaller tractors. The big tractors have pilot bearngs and I have had those bind up.

I'm banking on you not being able to turn that shaft with one bare hand. Lets face it, you don't have mechanical advantage, more like mechanical disadvantage would be the order of the day. With clutch tied down, pto in gear, transmission in neutral, you'll be turning everything, pto, transmission top shaft, shaft to clutch and the clutch disc. Not only is that a lot to turn, given what you have to grab hold of. Going backwards through the pto, power train will have close to a 3 to 1 speed increase. Your going to be turning the top shaft all the way to and including clutch disc 3 times the speed of the pto shaft you have grip on.

When you get it working perfect, try turning the pto shaft by hand with pto engaged and clutch tied down for 20 minutes steady, then write me an e mail, telling me how your arm feels.

Could be the adjustment on the clutch fingers, and you should check that out while yuo've got her split, but my money's on the throwout bearing or the linkage to it.