Swapping out Farmall M engines?

Your other engine should be a simple bolt up. If your not a pro as you seem to suggest, practice by removing the junk engine first. That way if you break something, you'll learn how to do it without breaking the same item on the good engine. Like you, I'm not an engine man, and tend to farm those out to pros. I just had a quote of possible $2,300. on my Farmall 130 engine. It doesn't have any strange noises, just blow by, and it's power isn't really that bad. One thing I find with rebuilders they use what they quote and appologize for the overrun. Oh, for the good old days when a pro would tell you, "It wasn't as bad as I expected, it's only going to cost 70% of what I quoted."

Id love to have a nice shop floor like some of you guys out there.

thanks

You wouldn't happen to have the plans for those bracing units you have for the tractor would you?

I like the way they look and appear to function.
thanks

In your case chalk the rear wheels, place a bottle jack under the clutch housing. If narrow front, remove the front wheels. Place a hardwood pallet under the engine and front bolster. Using 6"x6" blocking, block it from pallet to frame rails and bolster, then using tie-down rachet straps anchor the entire front end to the hardwood pallet. Jack a pallet jack in unison with bottle jack, unbolt the tractor at clutch housing, the roll the front end away with pallet jack.

I've had two or more tractors apart in my shop at one time, and one pallet jack does all. I have had a Farmall 560 on 5 separate pallets. Pallet no.1, engine and front end, no 2 torque tube, 3 rear end, no 4 and 5 each rear wheel in a standing position complete with cast center. I've seen some quite huge components taken off machines this way, key is good pallets, good blocking and high strength tie down straps. I have moved the entire rear end of an articulated Deere complete with wheels on a pallet. Problem in taking those apart, unless rear wheels are off the floor, drive shaft won't let it roll.

thanks.