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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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M charging

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henryv1111

11-28-2007 16:31:35




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Mr John: Thanks for all the help you have given me in the past. I started the tractor and no charge I checked all the grounds first. I grounded the field and it charged I took the ground off and it worked ok the H/L switch increased or decreased the amp rate ok. after 10 min it quit chariging again. this time I jumpered around the C/O and it started charging again. It looks like the C/O is bad. WIll any 6V C/O work I tried the IHC dealer but they said I have to get a Volt Reg. What ype of C/O is available

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teddy52food

11-28-2007 18:46:31




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 Re: M charging in reply to henryv1111, 11-28-2007 16:31:35  
The last generator I worked on had a bad cut out. I priced a new one and ended up wiring a diode in the curcuit and it works just fine.



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Bob M

11-29-2007 05:24:29




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 Re: M charging in reply to teddy52food, 11-28-2007 18:46:31  
Another possibility is to remove the guts from the existing C/O. Mount a 40 amp, 600 PIV diode on the old C/O base, stick the C/O cover back on then remount it the tractor. Only you will know the C/O’s not original!

Any good industrial electronics supplier will have the diode - figure about $8 or so.



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John T

11-28-2007 18:34:17




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 Re: M charging in reply to henryv1111, 11-28-2007 16:31:35  
I agree with my friends good advice and you dont have to get a VR like the dealer said, its just that if you want something from him that may be all thats available..... If youre a collector or concerned with the Correct Police the original cutout relay and LHDB light switch system is the way to go versus converting to a Voltage Regulator

Id guess lots of different tractor brands other then IHC or a generic mechanical (NOT the solid state type like Bob mentioned) 6 volt cutout relay would still work, but the problem is if it dont, many shops dont permit electrical returns so youre stuck with it n out those bucks.

For sure a solid state device will work (regardless of brand) and it would be my choice if you insist on a cutout relay and cant get an IHC PLUS they may well last for yearsssss sssss as theres no contacts or relays to fail. I have seen them labeled for either Pos or Neg ground as all you do is reverse the leads. Im in Bobs camp, SOLID STATE IS PROB THE BEST CHOICE ....

Also Id first diagnose or you may be able to repair the one you have like Jim mentioned. First thing Id so is insure its well grounded or maybe run a good ground direct to its case n see if it latches in then. Of course, it can just be bad n wont ever work like if its shunt winding has opened it wont ever latch in regardless if the contact points are perfect n not the problem.

DIGGIN A LIL DEEPER: If it only charges with the CO by passed that sure says its bad buttttt ttt the way you describe how it all of a sudden stopped charging dont sound like the way Id expect the CO would fail, cuz once its latched in its harder to make it open then it was to initially latch closed in the first place..... .. Its more common for the contacts to burn n weld shut and stick closed then it is to suddenly drop out (assuming the genny n all else is still fine)... BEFORE I bought a new CO Id check the wiring and the CO ground once more I think.....

John T

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John T

11-28-2007 18:33:46




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 Re: M charging in reply to henryv1111, 11-28-2007 16:31:35  
I agree with my friends good advice and you dont have to get a VR like the dealer said, its just that if you want something from him that may be all thats available..... If youre a collector or concerned with the Correct Police the original cutout relay and LHDB light switch system is the way to go versus converting to a Voltage Regulator

Id guess lots of different tractor brands other then IHC or a generic mechanical (NOT the solid state type like Bob mentioned) 6 volt cutout relay would still work, but the problem is if it dont, many shops dont permit electrical returns so youre stuck with it n out those bucks.

For sure a solid state device will work (regardless of brand) and it would be my choice if you insist on a cutout relay and cant get an IHC PLUS they may well last for yearsssss sssss as theres no contacts or relays to fail. I have seen them labeled for either Pos or Neg ground as all you do is reverse the leads. Im in Bobs camp, SOLID STATE IS PROB THE BEST CHOICE ....

Also Id first diagnose or you may be able to repair the one you have like Jim mentioned. First thing Id so is insure its well grounded or maybe run a good ground direct to its case n see if it latches in then. Of course, it can just be bad n wont ever work like if its shunt winding has opened it wont ever latch in regardless if the contact points are perfect n not the problem.

DIGGIN A LIL DEEPER: If it only charges with the CO by passed that sure says its bad buttttt ttt the way you describe how it all of a sudden stopped charging dont sound like the way Id expect the CO would fail, cuz once its latched in its harder to make it open then it was to initially latch closed in the first place..... .. Its more common for the contacts to burn n weld shut and stick closed then it is to suddenly drop out (assuming the genny n all else is still fine)... BEFORE I bought a new CO Id check the wiring and the CO ground once more I think.....

John T

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Bob M

11-28-2007 17:16:41




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 Re: M charging in reply to henryv1111, 11-28-2007 16:31:35  
Another possibility is a solid state cutout relay. Unlike the OEM cutout this has no moving parts nor contact points to go wrong. I've used them - they work great.

A good alternator shop should be able to get a solid state cutout. Or punch below...



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Janicholson

11-28-2007 16:37:01




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 Re: M charging in reply to henryv1111, 11-28-2007 16:31:35  
Two options, NAPA has them listed (Last I looked), and Electrical system repair shops will also have them. I would take off the cover and see if I could polish and smooth the contacts first. Intermittent operation is often caused by that. 320 grit (or finer, then use contact cleaner, or compressed air/duster can to remove residue. Good luck, JimN



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