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Tom: My brother uses a system for narrow front tractors, using a set of binder truck wheels. He has an axle made up to accept the binder wheels. He places that directly under rear of engine, with adjustable vertical links going up to engine side chanels. He also has diagnol adjustable braces from his binder axle to front bolster. This allows the entire front of the tractor to roll without fear of tipping. He then just places a bottle jack under clutch housing of rear half, lock the brakes, choke rear wheels. By far easier to make the back half stable. I use a different system, mine works well with wide front, but I have to remove front wheels on a narrow front. I place a hardwood pallet extending from front end to rear of engine. I then use square blocking up to tractor frame making contact in at least 3 places. Using ratchet tie down straps, I anchor the entire front end to the hardwood pallet. I then use a bottle jack under clutch housing and a pallet jack under the pallet. However you do this, always move the front section. The back half is easy to secure, and it will stay put. Both systems work well, I think I have an advantage with big tractors. I once did a 560 with engine and front end on 1 pallet, torque tube on a second pallet, and each rear wheel filled with chloride and in a standing position on two separate pallets. Definitely works better if you have mulitpule functions going on, the one pallet jack can do all. I have rolled the back half of an articulated Deere away from the front half on a pallet. Quite versitile as your jack is never tied up longer than the actual move. I find you can buy used pallet jacks around $100.-$150. Good solid jacks, very likely slow hydraulics from years of use. I've had the same one for 20 now.
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