Carb, coil, tune up info C-263 gas

I put a condenser in with no help. I was going to put in new points but I couldn't find my feeler guages and the nut where the condenser goes in was too big for a 5/16" and too small for a 3/8" wrench. The 3/8" wouldn't tighten it up. So I stopped there.

I checked the coil after it would run for a while and quit, but it was as ice cold as I was. Decided to buy a new coil anyway, went to TSC. They carry a 6 volt that says it works with a 6v or a 12 v without external resistance. They had a 12 v with external resistance. I don't know what the external resistance is. Went to Orscheln where they had a catalog but didn't stock the coil for an IH. But I did get some new plug wires to put on. I already had put on a new dist cap and rotor. I guess I will also loosen the distributor and see if moving it makes a difference. I don't have a light but if memory serves me, if I retard it a little it will start and run better.

Anyone else have any ideas on the carb, where to get and what type of coil, and the tune-up process? I have read a ton of the old posts on this stuff and have some general ideas but I guess it is replace everything by trial and error. I also looked at that exhaust manifold flapper, I freed it up with some WD and a screw driver. However it doesn't seem to move on its own. I can move the flapper by hand, which way is open and which way is closed, either flapper to the right or up where you can see it?

Thanks for now, Green Bay just scored to go ahead in the 2nd quarter. I know no one will be on the internet till the game is over.

I took the carb apart again. Instead of spending $41 for a new float, which I may still have to do, I took a punch and partially flattened out the dent in it where the needle rides. Set the float level a 1/16" over to 1 3/8" to allow for the dent. Put it back together making sure it cleared the gasket. Then I shook it a few times and I could hear the float moving up and down without catching on any thing. The float seemed to stop the free flow of fuel now.

Added a 3/8" tee below the fuel tank outlet with a 2" nipple and cap to catch any rust along with adding a ball valve at the middle of the tee to shut off the fuel as the new sediment bulb now installed after the ball valve didn't seem to totally shut off the gas.

Put in a new 12v internal resistance coil from NAPA, the IC14SB. Put in new IH points along with the new IH condenser that was in there. I can't find a 11/32" wrench anywhere (no one carries them anymore) but found a 9mm worked just fine.

Put on new 7mm copper spark plug wires of the brand from Orscheln. I taped them out on a yard stick for a week at home to try to get the coil out of them.

Put in new autolite 388 spark plugs.

It was late and I didn't get to drive it, but it started up and ran just as slick as can be once I remembered to put the wire back on going from the coil to the dist. I still need to drive it to see if still boggs down in second gear though.

3 questions though:

1. The points adjustment. I would use a .020 feeler guage but when I tightened down on the screw for the final tightening, it would move the bracket and open up the points. I finally adjusted them with a .010 guage and then tightended it down. That left it with the proper .020. What is the best way to do it or what is wrong here?

2. The new spark plug wires are so stiff that I had to route them up and around where they touch the hood or are too close to the block. The new ones were also a right angle attachment at the plug and ride close to the block. The old wires were soft but they had some burnt ends and the ends stuck straight on to the plug where they weren't close to the block and the old rubber boots didn't stay tight on the new dist. I used some of that electrical grease on the new ones. With a couple of them, the boots and wires don't want to stay pushed down in the dist cause of the stiff wires and I don't like the way the copper ends attached to the wires. I know they will come loose or get burnt up over time. Anyone have a better idea on what to do for plug wires?

3. The old plugs. They were a D16. I put in a hotter autolite 388. I numbered them as I took them out. Seems like 4 or 5 of them were oily and 1 or 2 around the middle of the engine were dry and carboned up. This motor has a lot of blowby but it doesn't smoke out the exhaust very much. Does the condition of the plugs suggest anything to anyone?

Which would work better, a 6 volt coil without the resistor or a 12 volt coil with a resistor?

About the coil. Mine is 12v. on a C-263. I looked at the caseIH website for a picture and mine does not have an external resistor on it. Do I need one and should I get one? Wouldn't any extra amperage help the spark? If a weak coil is part of my problem, it doesn't seem right to reduce it down. I kinda thought the hotter the coil the better unless there is something else going on here. Thanks again.