Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Discussion Forum
:

the pics from "clueless on a farmall tractor"

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
blksvt04

02-21-2008 20:45:11




Report to Moderator

first of all i have mechanical experiences, 2nd i drove this tractor since i was 7 so i no how to run it, and 3rd its a freakin 50 year old equipment, things have change since then, and 4th im not bying a manuel when i can get some help. but anyways this are the pics

this is it w/out the hood

third party image

this is were the battery goes. there is no 1 there cause i got to get a new 1

third party image

This one is a pic of the levers....there is 2 and the gas lever

third party image

this is the actually cover...it says farmall super a

third party image

this is the oil guage, oil filter which is factory welded, and below it is the oil stick.

third party image

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
skyharborcowboy

02-25-2008 05:06:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: help if you want it in reply to tooltime, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  

Janicholson said: (quoted from post at 23:22:57 02/24/08) Please understand the following:

There has been confusion in several areas

We were not informed which things went OK, and which did not, but several things were glossed over and unclear.

1 Whether the oil filter canister (silo) ever was removed, without which it is not possible to change the filter inside it.

2 The serialnumber and tag info from block (above distributor near #1 plug, or on the serial plate on the clutch housing, or seat bracket) or the date code from the block or trans casting/s.

3 Your use of terms that are not those used in the practice, and unwillingness to switch to them.

4 The difficulty trying to read Texty mess a ging, typing shorthand we do not use because it is unclear to all the seasond minds in this forum.

5 We can get over all this if you:

a} listen to us when we say get a manual or 3

b} understand that the tractor may be worth quite a bit more than others similar to it. (If and only if we can verify that it is a specific model) This is important to you, believe me.

c} Gripping the opportunity to interact here is way worth your time. (ask Lanse, the I wanafarmall guy) it does get much better.

D} we will continue to react like a bossy dad you didn't know you had, if you keep acting like we, and our opinions are just the kind of trash talk found on my space, etc. We collectively are far better than the sum of all the manuals, but use them as a base.

E} Spend real time giving to the proposition of saving and preserving old red iron, Or any iron that is thretened to be melted when it is in usable form.

I make in the neighborhood of 100$ an hour for professorial contact time. (classroom/Lab direct activity with students) I have put in an hour with you, butexpect the pay to be growth and understanding as well as a completed project. This is actually free. So your option is to get active not reactive.

James A. Nicholson PH.D. Technology Education, and Technology Management, St. Cloud State University, MN.


I couldnt agree more with what you said! I hate it when people do not use proper English to write, or at least attempt it! It also doesnt matter if you make $10 or $100 an hour as someone is offering their valuable time to help you with YOUR project for free so use it to YOUR benefit and give back to others when you are capable of doing so! That is what this type of forum is all about!

Take Care,

Joe

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Janicholson

02-24-2008 20:22:57




Report to Moderator
 help if you want it in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
Please understand the following:
There has been confusion in several areas
We were not informed which things went OK, and which did not, but several things were glossed over and unclear.
1 Whether the oil filter canister (silo) ever was removed, without which it is not possible to change the filter inside it.
2 The serialnumber and tag info from block (above distributor near #1 plug, or on the serial plate on the clutch housing, or seat bracket) or the date code from the block or trans casting/s.
3 Your use of terms that are not those used in the practice, and unwillingness to switch to them.
4 The difficulty trying to read Texty mess a ging, typing shorthand we do not use because it is unclear to all the seasond minds in this forum.
5 We can get over all this if you:
a} listen to us when we say get a manual or 3
b} understand that the tractor may be worth quite a bit more than others similar to it. (If and only if we can verify that it is a specific model) This is important to you, believe me.
c} Gripping the opportunity to interact here is way worth your time. (ask Lanse, the I wanafarmall guy) it does get much better.
D} we will continue to react like a bossy dad you didn't know you had, if you keep acting like we, and our opinions are just the kind of trash talk found on my space, etc. We collectively are far better than the sum of all the manuals, but use them as a base.
E} Spend real time giving to the proposition of saving and preserving old red iron, Or any iron that is thretened to be melted when it is in usable form.
I make in the neighborhood of 100$ an hour for professorial contact time. (classroom/Lab direct activity with students) I have put in an hour with you, butexpect the pay to be growth and understanding as well as a completed project. This is actually free. So your option is to get active not reactive.

James A. Nicholson PH.D. Technology Education, and Technology Management, St. Cloud State University, MN.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Janicholson

02-23-2008 06:40:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
That tractor has obviously been repainted. if the prep for paint (though from the picture it was not thorough every where) cleaned the groove where the canister fits into the block seat (bottom of the "silo") it will be very difficult to remove. but there is no way to weld it, and no one would try. the materials are different (steel and cast iron). If a former owner used epoxy to seal the canister to the casting, it might take heat to get it apart. Clean all the way around it with a power wire brush, the scrape away more paint and residue to get to the gap and please keep us informed. JimN

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ScottyHOMEy

02-23-2008 04:49:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
Just to be clear, where are you trying to separate it? From your picture, there is what appears to be a seam in the casting, and I'm wondering if you're trying to get it apart at the wrong place. The cover for the filter does not have a flange on the bottom. The place you should be cleaning out, and where it comes apart, is at the bottom edge of the domed upright cylinder. There is no flange on the bottom of that cover.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
skyharborcowboy

02-23-2008 01:08:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
Take some more PHOTOS to show them that you have cleaned it and removed everything possible and still cant remove it and need more suggestions! You should be doing that anyway!
Not only that, never have an attitude when seeking free help! When you are paying for help feel free to rip someones head off but otherwise it is best to be nice! The only time I get testy is when I ask a very specific question and all I want is an answer and someone has to pipe in with advice that I dont care to hear about. That is the only exception to my previous rule!

Joe

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
blksvt04

02-22-2008 22:14:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to jwal10, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  

Hugh MacKay said: (quoted from post at 16:44:33 02/22/08) Cut the crap, you haven't even cleaned the dirt away from the filter canister.


yes i have it was clump up 2, and have already put oil to the recommended level, already got the new plugs measured and installed, new battery installed, the carburator clean, gas tank cleaned, the fuel filter cleaned, all the fuel lines and all is lefted is changin the oil and ill try the oil filter again and yes i have tooken the bolt off and its oily first off and i can move the filter but i swear too you guys, there is no way of getting it off...its welded and painted read in the seams where its conjoined but ill try it again.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
tn terry t

02-22-2008 16:26:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to JT, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  

blksvt04 said: (quoted from post at 16:34:39 02/22/08)
gene bender said: (quoted from post at 03:31:25 02/22/08) So what makes you think the filter is factory welded?


b/c i have tried tapping it, tried pvc blaster, and even a screw driver where the seams are but it is joined into one whole piece. but in the prevous thread a fellow said i can come factory welded

you havent even taken the bolt out so how can you say you have beat on it ?

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
blksvt04

02-22-2008 15:34:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to El Toro, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  

gene bender said: (quoted from post at 03:31:25 02/22/08) So what makes you think the filter is factory welded?


b/c i have tried tapping it, tried pvc blaster, and even a screw driver where the seams are but it is joined into one whole piece. but in the prevous thread a fellow said i can come factory welded

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hugh MacKay

02-22-2008 15:44:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-22-2008 15:34:39  
Cut the crap, you haven't even cleaned the dirt away from the filter canister.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
mkirsch

02-22-2008 06:31:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: Early birds in reply to Scott Swanson, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
I'm sorry some of us came off as a little brash, but you just didn't seem to be "getting it" and I for one didn't want to see you make a very expensive $$$ mistake. It was the only way to get your attention, because you were bouncing around from item to item like a ferret on meth.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Janicholson

02-22-2008 06:11:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
The advice you recieve will pay off handsomely if you understand that we have the manuals and cannot become the artificial manual to your efforts. There are too many terms of application and operation that are missing from common ground. I will add to the advice given that this is a very nice tractor and you will be very pleased with its solid performance. If it is an SA1 it deserves some special care, due to several factors (use the search for box to find SA1) The oil filter housing is very messy when removed, it will get oil coming (if not pouring) out of the bottom of the silo like tower you have been instructed to bump with a rubber mallet. There is an O ring on the bottom of the groove that seals the filter cover to the casting, that O ring is usually hardened to the point of crisp carbon and is square in crossection. It is necessary to replace it with the new one that comes (and is made sure to be there) with the new filter cartridge. The O ring often requires a dental pick, or wedge sharpened small screwdriver to get it out and clean. Do not mar up or scratch the groove it is located in. It is deep in the groove. It is hard. It is narrow. it can take an hour to get it out with out being brutal. The groove must be clean and bright for the new one to be leak free. It is not possible to add a second gasket to the one in there and have it not leak, or blow out when using the tractor. Best of luck with this effort, we are here for you, but please respect the fact that we are not standing next to you pointing. As we point to things from a distance with our best efforts, realize our dependance on the manual. JimN

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Red Mist

02-22-2008 05:30:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
Gee, I'm sorry, but I can't help you. Good luck.
mike



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy in NE

02-22-2008 05:22:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
I missed the original posts on this. I do have to agree that you need to get the operator and service manuals for your Super A.

In your top picture you can see everything that you need to change the oil. You can see the oil filter canister, the drain plug fitting on the bottom of the oil pan, and the oil filler tube attached to the valve cover. You removed the filler cap/breather to get the hood off.

If you look at your last picture where it shows the oil pressure gage and dipstick you can see the oil filter canister. It takes a 3/4" wrench to remove the bolt on the top of the canister. That bolt is about 8" long since it screws into the oil filter canister housing at the bottom of the filter. If you gently tap on the side of the canister it should come loose. Take a small screw driver or other sharp instrument to remove the old o-ring from the groove in the housing. It may be so hard that it feels like metal in there but it should come out. If you put the new o-ring in the groove and if the o-ring doesn't drop down below the top of the groove then you definitely have an old o-ring in there.

The oil is drained out through the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan.

The oil is poured in through the oil fill tube attached to the top of the valve cover. You may think that you are pouring the oil in the pistons but you are just pouring it on the top of the head. There are oil return passages to drain it back down to the oil pan. 5 quarts should put the level above the lower petcock. 6 quarts should fill it to the upper petcock.

Regular 30W oil will work just fine. If you live where it gets cold and plan to run it in the winter you may want to go with 10W-30 or some other multi-viscosity oil. About the only oil that you can get these days is detergent oil. That is ok. After running the tractor for 10-20 hours you may want to change the oil and filter again, just in case a lot of sludge has loosened up.

Your oil pump is not in the housing next to the oil pressure gauge and oil filter canister. The oil pump is located in the bottom of the oil pan. The pan is the lowest point in the engine so that is where the oil drains to. The oil pump sits in the oil to get its suction.

GET THE MANUALS. And sitting on a tractor and driving it for years does NOT make someone mechanical. It just means that you can operate the clutch, gear shifter, throttle, and you are able to steer it. These little engines were used in the A, B, C, Super A, and Super C with minor differences. They are about the most basic engine and very easy to work on and maintain. Randy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hugh MacKay

02-22-2008 06:35:57




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to Randy in NE, 02-22-2008 05:22:09  
Randy: It's not a Super A. it might have Super A sheet metal, however the engine is C-123 and the torque tube is later model.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy in NE

02-22-2008 09:17:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to Hugh MacKay, 02-22-2008 06:35:57  
I figured if anybody could tell the difference in the two it would be you. You have probably owned more of these little offsets than anybody else on this board. I have thought different times it would be fun to own all of the letter series up through the M. I just don't have storage room for them without having to pay for it. Maybe some day I will get a Cub and/or an A. With my 30 foot goose neck trailer I would have plenty of room to haul them. Randy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John M

02-22-2008 03:25:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
I missed the original thread, but to ge tthe oil filter canister off, take out the long bolt, and tap the side of the canister with rubber hammer lightly until it pops loose. It is NOT welded. I do believe the dipstick was aftermarket, or could very well be an IH part if the engine has been repoalced with a stationary unit. Im not too knowledgeable of the As and Super As as we didnt have but one when I was growing up, but I think they are a nice little tractor. One peice of advice i will give, get a manual, as I think you have probably pushed your limit now, and you may not get too many responces here.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Permaclutter

02-22-2008 04:56:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from in reply to John M, 02-22-2008 03:25:49  
Try not to store fertiliser and fuel together.
Under drippy battery holders might be a bad idea too.
Good luck



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
brainerd dave

02-22-2008 19:23:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from in reply to Permaclutter, 02-22-2008 04:56:46  
That does look like something extremely bad waiting to happen. Think Oklahoma City.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hugh MacKay

02-22-2008 03:22:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
I don't care how old it is, some basic items remain unchanged. Most modern day engines have an oil drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan, have an oil fill cap in top of valve cover, have a filter base cast into engine block. It has a dipstick, most modern engines still use that.

It says on the side of the hood you have a Super A, however it doesn't have a Super A engine, unless it is a Super A1. It doesn't have a Super A torque tube. You have a C-123 engine, used only in Super A1, 100, 130 and 140 offsets. It's not a 140 engine as the dipstick on 140 is forward of the oil filter. It also has lights that were used on SA1, 100 and 130.

If you truly want to identify what you have, check out all these items, and when I say ALL, I mean every damn one of them. None of this jumping from one item to the other without resolving anything, like you did on the other thread. Each casting has a casting date code, about 1/2" high digits and are day and month by number and year by letter cast in place. Between each of day, month and year it has what looks like a round head blade type screw cast right into casting. The letters are X-1952, Y 1953, Z1954, A-1955, B-1956, you can go forward or back from there. Don't bother with all of them, just do engine block, torque tube, hydraulic unit and transmission-rear end. The results of those will help identify what you have. Just an example on the hydraulic unit in your photo it shows numbers. The larger numbers on top are the part number, just below it is the date code.

Next go to engine just below number one spark plug on engine block casting. Clear away dirt and you'll find a machined flat surface. You will find letters and numbers STAMPED, not cast in place. Give me all those letters and numbers in order.

In the earlier thread folks advised you to look under seat on left seat support for serial tag, and that is true until sometime in 1954, after that the serial tag moved to left side of clutch housing. I suggest you look there for a serial tag.

If you give me everything I listed in the last three paragraphs, I can identify exactly what you have. I agree, I came down quite hard on you. I should point out, most of the respondants of the other thread, made one basic mistake, "Trying to give you advice without finding out exactly what they were giving advice for." Just one of the pitfalls on forums.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
a_lead

02-22-2008 03:09:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
blksvt04: I read a lot more than I reply too, but felt the need to add my 2 cents worth to this one:

BE careful with the attitude. You came here looking for help and advice and got very good, sound advice from people who know the tractor that you are trying to work on.

Many here can help you with their lifetime of experience with these tractors, and from their lessons learned from the school of hard knocks.

If you cop too much of an attitude with the guys here they"ll clam up tighter than the bark on a tree and you won"t get any help at all!!

A very wise old sage once told me to be careful when you climb up the ladder, not to piddle and pooh on the rungs as you go, "cause sometime you may have to climb back down.

That being said, one thing that you may do is to look and see if your Grandfather has a manual for this tractor. If he had it for a long time it"s very possible that he had an owners manual for it.

From the looks of the tractor in your pictures, it looks like he must have used it a lot to cultivate with (lots of caked on oil and dirt). Take a screwdriver or a pick and scrap the dirt from the bottom of the "silo" in front of the oil gauge. Loosen the bolt that is on the top and gently tap on the side with a rubber mallet. It should break loose and you"ll find it"s a canister and it should have an oil filter inside of it.

Good Luck. Edward

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
P and R Pete

02-22-2008 03:00:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from "clueless on a farmall tractor" in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
blksvt04, you wrote:

[quote:f538f8c5de]..... and do u pure the oil in the pistons? [/quote:f538f8c5de]

While not doubting that you can drive the tractor, you wrote the above remark long after several people had very carefully told you exactly where to insert fresh oil.

Maybe you write too quickly, but it is remarks like the above that are making everybody nervous.
You absolutely do NOT pour the oil in the pistons.
And not to discourage you, but I'll join the others- don't put anything anywhere, without a manual in hand.

And Gene's right. That filter cover is not "factory-welded".

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gene bender

02-22-2008 02:31:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: the pics from clueless on a farmall tractor in reply to blksvt04, 02-21-2008 20:45:11  
So what makes you think the filter is factory welded?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
a_lead

02-22-2008 03:16:50




Report to Moderator
 Early birds in reply to gene bender, 02-22-2008 02:31:25  
Gene, R & R Pete:

Looks like I'm not the only early bird around here. Getting snow here in North Central MD, supposed to start sleet and freezing rain any time. Don't mind the snow but they can keep all of the ice.

Edward



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gene bender

02-22-2008 06:17:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: Early birds in reply to a_lead, 02-22-2008 03:16:50  
This retirement is realy rough sleep when ya want play on the computer when ya want play with tractors when ya want. Like every one im tired if the snow and cold got stuff buried in the snow banks to work on but till then just warm up the wood stove in the shop and wait and play.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Greg-N-CA

02-22-2008 05:49:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Early birds in reply to a_lead, 02-22-2008 03:16:50  
This forum is a wonderful resource, but the best free advice you can get has already been given. I always purchase a service manual and parts book for every tractor I acquire. I do this even if I plan on selling or trading it soon, the new owner always appreciates it. These books are inexpensive and can answer most of your questions while standing alongside the tractor. My humble opinion, Greg

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy