(PICS) Farmall 504 Hydraulic Rebuilding Advice Needed...

What I have here looks like a nasty, oily mess! Not to mention (another post to follow) the quadrant leaks too. At $25.00 per five gallons of generic Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission fluid, this gets expensive, quick.

P.S. Check out my loader installation pictures from yesterday, quite a feat.

Thanks guys.

Included are some pictures of what I am working with. Also, I would like to redo the hydraulic lines (Banjo?) and fittings. They have been altered and brazed, are these still available?

As for the banjo fittings, two suggestions.
1. Get rid of them. The valve ports are standard SAE O ring ports, 7/8-14 thread. any hydraulic shop can get fittings from this to whatever you want.

2. If the banjo fittings are good and have about 1.5 inches of straight pipe left on them, You can use a compression hose fittingto hook up a hose. Both Weatherhead and Parker and maybe Gates have them. So it's off to the hydraulic shop again, hope you have a good one around.
Leonard

Secondly, when you say a compression fitting, we are talking about the ferrule and nut job?

I personaly would like to remove the banjos and use 90 deg fittings to clean up the arrangement. There are stacked banjos on the rear of both valves that used to go to the single action ports on the front that were disconnected. Rather than use a shorter banjo bolt, they were crimped and brazed. The pressure generated when I tried to apply downforce blew a pin-hole in the braze.

Thanks,

Charles

Yes these ports are sometimes called O ring boss ports. In fact some IH tractors have standard SAE O ring fittings at the valves instead of the banjo fittings. Sounds like someone did a hack job that you are trying to clean up.

The compression fittings are NOT the brass ones that are used with copper tubing. The ones I am talking about are all steel. There are crimp on hose ends with a nut and compression sleeve to go on the tube. Weatherhead calls theirs "ERMETO".

Just a suggestion. I'd clean that all the oil mess up, pull that cover under the seat and remove that silly standpipe in the reservoir.

Start ‘er up and watch for any leakage. Bet it will eliminate about 95% of your problem. A seep at the quadrant shaft(s) will make it look like it’s leaking everywhere.

Nice job on the loader, by the way. You did good!

Allan

Thanks again,

Charles

Naw, all ya gotta do is unscrew it and throw it away. :>)

It's purpose is to keep the level of the oil right up to within a half inch of the the top.

Don't ask me why they did that????? ? Even with the standpipe out, all working parts are still submersed in oil.

It is the easiest way I know to fix those drips out the quadrant.

Disclaimer: Haven't been in a tractor like yours, but I'm assuming that your tractor is built along the same lines as is the 544, 656, etc, etc.

Allan

I found my housing had about an inch of sludge in the bottom that I cleaned out. Since mine doesn't have the draft control, there was a 3" long hex bullplug in the left front corner. It is a 1/4" plug and I took it out. It allows oil to drain down but slowly. I took the plate off again when I was still having hydraulic problems to see if the the relief valve was bypassing again. I noticed it flowed so much hydraulic oil that it still filled up the cavity to the top of the standpipe because it wouldn't flow down the 1/4" hole fast enough. Since it was just filling up while running I decided not to cut the pipe off and risk getting metal filings in the oil. When I scooped it out the first time, I estimate it held about 1 1/2 gals. of hytran.