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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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International 504 Engine

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Brian in MA

03-24-2008 04:43:57




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We have a 504 gas that spun a bearing and chewed the rod and crank in the process. Looking at all the options and a quick spin through the archives show some promise on this topic, so I am looking for a little guidance here. Does anyone here have recent rebuild costs for that engine, including a crank replacement, so I can have an idea what should be involved? One post mentioned a rebuilt short block for under $2,000. Anyone know where that could be purchased and if it is still in that price range? This has been a great tractor in the family since brand new in 1962 and we'd like to bring her back, but need to do it reasonably. Thanks for all the help!

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Hugh MacKay

03-24-2008 16:41:38




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-24-2008 04:43:57  
Brian: Is this a 504 Utility? If so find yourself a good engine from a 300 or 350 Utility. You'll have a sleeved engine with a lot more torque, very likely more horse power than you ever experienced with the C-153. The C-169 or C-175 should be an easy find, in good condition. I'm betting on under $1,000. in your tractor and running.



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Brian in MA

03-25-2008 04:23:52




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Hugh MacKay, 03-24-2008 16:41:38  
Yes, it is a utility. So is the 300 or 350 utility engine a bolt in swap?



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Hugh MacKay

03-25-2008 05:18:25




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-25-2008 04:23:52  
Brian: The engine will bolt up at both ends. You will have to modify air breather and I suggest stay wth 504 dry element breather. Shroud around the fan may have to be modified. Throttle linkage will need modification. Exhaust will depend on whether horizontal or vertical. If your handy with welding, light fabrication most of those will be time and not a lot of cash outlay.



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Hugh MacKay

03-25-2008 07:57:35




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Hugh MacKay, 03-25-2008 05:18:25  
Brian: I bought a 504 gasser with some farmland back in the 70s It had 1,500 hours on it at the time, and when I made the purchase it was at the IH dealer having an engine rebuild. The vendor had bought the 504 new in 67, have traded off a 300 and had never been happy with 504 power. Bear in mind these were Farmalls, however the only thing different from utilities is block casting where it bolts to front end. That is why I said go Utility for a replacement engine.

When the 504 came home the vendor wanted to operate it couple of days just to satisfy himself IH dealer may have improved it. He operated it on a 9' haybine 3 days, and advised me not to keep it any longer than necessary. He knew I was thinking of keeping 504 and trading my well worn 300 on a new 1066. He said, "Don't make the same mistake I did, letting a 300 go in favour of a 504. The dealer gave me $3,000. more on trade in for 504 than he would have 300, to him 3 point hitch was a big plus.

To satisfy myself I took both tractors one day along with a 3x16 trailer plow. To my surprise the 35 hp 300 was marginally better than 45 hp 504. Both tractors would have been close to same weight, both with chloride and one set of wheel weights.

The 504 is a nice tractor, improved in just about every way over the 300, doesn't matter whether you choose Farmall or Utility. That C-153 engine just never measured up, plus it was not sleeved. I can't think of much better in that hp class than having a 504 with a C-169 or a C-175, unless you find a D-188 reasonable. That diesel is iron clad. Just remember if your changing engines go Farmall to Farmall or Utility to Utility.

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Brian in MA

03-25-2008 08:40:35




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Hugh MacKay, 03-25-2008 07:57:35  
Thanks for the comments. This tractor was bought by my grandfather brand new. It was the best, most powerful and nicest tractor he ever had. Here in New England in the 50's, 60's and 70's, a family farm only needed a 40 horsepower tractor and that was even overkill for 90% of what he did with it. He made hay, raised corn and milked 35 head. The hourmeter has never worked in my lifetime (37 years) and I can only imagine now many hours are on the tractor. I can tell you thath the rear tires are worn almost bald, so it has plenty of hours of use. I never knew anything with more power until recently (5 or 6 years ago) when I increased my gentleman farm I have with horses, cows, donkeys, etc. I use Diesel Ford tractors for making hay and most of the "hard" work, and the 504 is basically for brush hogging and playing. It is truly an old family friend and I want to bring it back as cheaply as I can to use occasionally and for fun. I thank you for your input and I will keep looking for a utility engine swap as I think that could be the most economical way back into this. It's kind of funny that I saw this tractor for 30 years as the greatest tractor ever put on earth, but hands down, when I need to "work" I choose either my 4600 or 5600 Fords, and they both use a fraction of the gas that the 504 can suck and put out much more torque and power.

Thanks.

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Brian in MA

03-25-2008 05:48:02




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Hugh MacKay, 03-25-2008 05:18:25  
Thanks for the information. I now have options to try.



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TractormanNC

03-24-2008 16:05:36




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-24-2008 04:43:57  
That block is indeed parent bore (has no sleeves). Couldn't find oversize pistons for my 504 about a year ago. NLA from CIH and couldn't find any aftermarket.

Put in new rings, turned the crank 10/10 and fixed the warped oil pump cover plate, had the head done and put er back together.

If you don't like undersize cranks, there are places that can weld them up and grind back to STD. Check with a GOOD machine shop.

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steelfronts

03-24-2008 11:37:49




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-24-2008 04:43:57  
Brian Last winter I broke the crank on a 340. Its almost the same a the 504 . I had to hunt aroun for a crank but found out there was plenty of them around so you dont have to jump on the first one you find . Anyway needed to replace the head also and the total money for a complete job was 1700 bucks.That most likely includes a new clutch too



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El Toro

03-24-2008 06:21:06




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-24-2008 04:43:57  
Do as Allan suggested, take the crankshaft and engine to your local auto machine shop. The crank just may need to be ground undersize. You will probably need to completely rebuild that engine. The spun rod will probably need replacing too. Hal



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Brian in MA

03-24-2008 06:39:44




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to El Toro, 03-24-2008 06:21:06  
I have had bad luck with grinding cranks to undersized. It has never worked for us on tractors in the past. But, I guess when you buy a rebuilt short block you have no idea what you get as far as that goes. Any idea what a rebuild should run for that tractor?



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El Toro

03-24-2008 08:32:04




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-24-2008 06:39:44  
Your auto machine shop can probably get a short block. They may be able to rebuild your engine.
I don't think that block is sleeved and would have to be bored oversize. Hal



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Allan In NE

03-24-2008 05:57:08




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 Re: International 504 Engine in reply to Brian in MA, 03-24-2008 04:43:57  
Brain,

Talk to your local machinist. They can get crank kits for reasonable costs.

Allan



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