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Baling with H

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JFavor

05-01-2008 19:22:25

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Just bought a New Holland 273 Baler. Paint & tires look good. Everything seems very tight. Paid $2500 and thought it was a good deal. 1) Now that I have it at home it's bigger than I thought. Will the H run it?
2) I tried rebaling some hay tonite. The twine kept hanging up on the left bill hook. It looks pretty rusty. Is it the rust? An adjustment? Or something worn?

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RayP(MI)

05-02-2008 16:54:43

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

I have a 268 that I pull with a JD B and some times with a Farmall 200. Your tractor should handle your baler comfortably. Depending on terrain, you might not want to pull a wagon behind, although we rarely have trouble pulling ours. Lack of live PTO is a handicap, but you can do it, if you"re careful. Since baler has a over-run clutch, you can start the baler rolling with the PTO engaged, transmission disengaged, and when it gets up to speed, then depress clutch, and shift transmission into gear, and pull off. I often start baler and ground drive before I reach the windrow, and I can start moving and baler at same time. Just go easy on the clutch. Balers don"t really need that much HP, as long as you"re not cramming them. Tractor does need some heft for control, but your H should fill that bill. Our tractors are lighter.

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LenNH

05-02-2008 12:51:51

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

This may be overstating the case, or have been suggested already by the writers who say there must be an overrunning clutch or live PTO. I've spent a lot of time with PTO stuff on 30s and 40s tractors without live PTO. If the machine is "pushing" the tractor, it is very difficult to get the pressure off the tractor gears long enough to knock the gear lever into neutral, unless 1) you quickly push down the clutch, and thereby risk completely bogging up the machine 2) blip the throttle somewhat toward a slower speed, with the same risk as with pushing in the clutch. I used to use an F-20 with a PTO-driven combine, and got pretty good at a VERY quick throttle blip combined with my right foot kicking the gear lever forward to neutral when the combine showed signs of bogging down. The H gear lever can't be kicked out of gear because of where it is. It is sure true that a PTO-driven machine with a lot of internal momentum can drive the tractor forward, sometimes in dangerous places (like the end of the field with a fencerow facing you!). If there's pressure on the gears, it's almost impossible to shift into neutral.
My 2-cents worth, devalued by inflation to next-to-nothing.

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JW in NH

05-02-2008 09:07:49

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

Baled 820 bales with a 1943 H and a MF#3 baler. Medium wind rows and 1st gear, 1/2 throttle. When the baler starts to back up, just push the tractor out of gear and let the baler clear. Use the clutch to put her back in gear. DON'T USE the CLUTCH to take the tractor out of gear. The bale will spin the PTO faster when its free running and when you let the clutch back in things have a tendency to twist off. BTDT. Only did once. Easy fix. But very nervious with hay down. Just as referrance I bale steep hill sides here in NH. My H had more than enough power to run that old baler.

Good Luck JW in NH

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Jfavor

05-01-2008 21:21:56

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

Thanks for the info. I've ordered a manual. Will try shining up the hooks. It ties ok. Twine just sticks on it. I think it's plastic twine. Got it at the NH dealer. Gordo, I'll keep you in mind if I need to replace one. FYI, Last year I baled about a 1000 bales with this tractor and a john Deere 24w baler. If the hay was dry and windrows small it worked fine.

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garytomaszewski

05-01-2008 20:28:45

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

H is a good tractor but a bit light, that might be a bit much baler especially if it has a thrower or you pull a rack. The lack of live PTO is a killer, get an overrunning clutch. Billhooks should be smooth and shiny, I use graphite spray on all the wear parts of the knotter when done for the day = lubes and effective rust preventer.

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kossuth

05-02-2008 03:53:04

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Re: Baling with H in reply to garytomaszewski, 05-01-2008 20:28:45

garytomaszewski said: (quoted from post at 20:28:45 05/01/08) H is a good tractor but a bit light, that might be a bit much baler especially if it has a thrower or you pull a rack. The lack of live PTO is a killer, get an overrunning clutch. Billhooks should be smooth and shiny, I use graphite spray on all the wear parts of the knotter when done for the day = lubes and effective rust preventer.

I thought all the new holland balers had a overrunning clutch essentially that was built into the PTO shafts on all their balers. I know our old 68 had one because we used the M with it just fine and I know the 310 has one as well being we've used the M once or twice on it as well. Correct me if I'm wrong and the 273 doesn't have one.

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mkirsch

05-02-2008 04:57:34

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Re: Baling with H in reply to kossuth, 05-02-2008 03:53:04

There is an overrunning clutch on the flywheel. All balers have that, or the flywheel would tear the PTO out of the tractor.

Get rid of the plastic twine. It's worthless. Use natural sisal twine, 7200'. The 9000' and 10000' sisal twine is also worthless, as the quality and consistency have gone down dramatically in the last 10 years or so. As an example, 9000' twine goes from as big around as your little finger to as thin as a thread, and it breaks in the baler. 7200' is somewhat better as it is thicker overall.

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Tony S.

05-02-2008 20:04:59

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Re: Baling with H in reply to mkirsch, 05-02-2008 04:57:34

They make replacement billhooks and twine knives for plastic twine. Only way to go if you're using a stacker. Sisal twine just won't hold up.

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Chuck46

05-02-2008 08:56:03

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Re: Baling with H in reply to mkirsch, 05-02-2008 04:57:34

What twine do you buy? I go through about 50 bales of 9000 a year with no problem, I have not had a problem usuing plastic either. Chuck

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GordoSD

05-02-2008 08:08:46

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Re: Baling with H in reply to mkirsch, 05-02-2008 04:57:34

The owners manual recommends 9000 for the 273/275. But I noticed what you said. A variance in the diameter of the sisal twine from spool to spool, and within a spool. It was markedly bad in some twine from TSC. Much better in the New Holland brand from IH Dealer. No NH balers selling for 300 dollars around here. Minimum is 1000. I paid 1100 for mine 5 years ago, and put another 300 into it in parts and tire.

Gordo

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ihc49

05-01-2008 20:10:47

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

i sure didnt think those old 35 year old 273 new hollands sold that high!i was just at a sale couple days ago and was debating to pay 300.00 for a good looking one, but thats what it sold for.my nieghbour sold his 278nh for 250.00 but anyway its a pain in the rear baleing with out a live pto.

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GordoSD

05-01-2008 19:38:36

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

You need to get an operators manual for the 273. I have a 275, almost identical. There are about 1000 different adjustments on that baler. I do have one new billfoot, as I had to buy a pair, and I only needed one. Are you using hemp or plastic twine? I tried baling with my Super H and it was a disaster. The 966 gobbled them up. But I just finished the SMTA and going to try that.

Gordo

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chadd

05-02-2008 07:44:27

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Re: Baling with H in reply to GordoSD, 05-01-2008 19:38:36

Did the super H not have enough power to operate the baler? I know my dad tried using our 52 hp 2500A (industrial 574) once and it didn't bale worth beans (lots of open bales). The baler manual states that it required 35 hp to effectively run the baler, but the tractor's governor was kicking in every time the plunger moved and it drank the fuel down as though there were a hole in the tank. Switched it over to the W6 at 36 hp and never missed a bale for the rest of the field. The W6 doesn't have hydraulics or IPTO, but the fields are long and narrow, so I end up only picking up about 10 bales per field at the corners from not turning the thrower. We only use the W6 in an emergency though. Our normal baler tractor is the 806 Diesel. What is really funny though, is that the W6 works the thrower better than our 806 or 966. I actually have to turn down the thrower speed on the W6, otherwise it throws the bales over the back of the wagon.

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Janicholson

05-01-2008 19:30:19

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Re: Baling with H in reply to JFavor, 05-01-2008 19:22:25

Light wwindwors, first gear, a overrunning clutch on the driveshaft, and well preped hay. An H is at the very bottom of the scorecard, and may in fact be only partially on the page.
The twine contact areas need to be shiny. 220 carbide paper, then 400 for a while to make slick. Lube the operating parts and make twine tension even. JimN

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Dave H (MI)

05-02-2008 07:15:35

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Re: Baling with H in reply to Janicholson, 05-01-2008 19:30:19

I think the H would be fine for the job if he has some weight on it. Most of the hardship in haying is from the baler in my experience and if the tractor is too light he might get pushed around a bit. Well prepped hay? I wouldn't recommend he rake any windrows together or he is likely to be unjamming that baler a lot. Light even windrows and a slow ground speed and he ought to have a "relatively" pleasant experience. Haying is hard, hot work.

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