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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum

Wheel and axle

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jeffnPA

05-21-2008 22:41:23

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Been lurkin' on this site for a couple of years now. I feel like I owe alot of people a great thanks for all I've learned. I have an I-6.Both rear axle seals leak.Ordered new seals and bearings. OK,Removed the single bolt on the hub of the left side.It loosened easily.And the wheel came off nicely also.The right side needed a bar to get the bolt out.This side seems frozen to the spline.I tried using a hydraulic jack vertically off of the axle housing (8 ton) and tapping with a mallet.My next idea is to put the left wheel back on and drive the tractor with the bolt loose on the left side to see if the weight of the tractor will break it loose of the spline. Am I asking for trouble here and if so how do you get this hub off? Thanks to everyone

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J.J. from Afton

05-22-2008 21:17:54

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Re: Wheel and axle in reply to jeffnPA, 05-21-2008 22:41:23

Id say either get a puller or make a puller like Haas was talking about. Those things can and will be a real bear to get off. On my 560 Standard, the right one came of real easy. The left one not so much. Luckily they had a puller or two up at school, cause I stripped one em trying to get my wheel off. Also helped to have big blowtorch to heat up the center.

Also whe you got to put em back on coat the axle and center splins with anti seize, just in case you need to pull em off again in the future.

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Haas

05-22-2008 18:16:36

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Re: Wheel and axle in reply to jeffnPA, 05-21-2008 22:41:23

I have an I-6. Have never taken the hubs off the axle. When I got it, one of the axle hub retainer washers was missing and the bolt sheared off. I finally got that fixed, but I doubt driving it would ever loosen it to get the hub off the axle. What I have done though is take the rims off the hubs. They were rusted solidly in the about 1/16 inch clearance between the rims and the hubs. Took me 3 weeks to get the first one off. After that learning experience, 3 days for the second one. Anyway here is what I did and a similar thing might work for getting the hub off the axle. I got some heavy 2 x 2 inch square tubing with 3/8 thich wall. I cut pieces and drilled holes so that the ends of the tubing could bear against the back side of the rim and bolts could go through the holes for the rim clamps. After getting this setup with 8 bolts (actually hight strength all thread from the fastener store) and using lots of PB Blaster and a cheater on the 5/8 bolts, finally got the rims off. For your situation, I suggest using the hole in the hub that are meant for the wheel weights. That will mean using 4 bolts and two pieces of heavy steel tubing. Cut the tubing to length and drill holes to match the bolt circle of the wheel weight holes. Cut a length of heavy pipe or large round stock to bear on the end of the axle. Then install the heavy tubing using high strength threaded rods or bolts through the wheel weight holes. (Don't use all thread from a hardware store unless you know it is at least equivalent to grade 5 bolts) The square tubing needs to cross over the end of the axle and the pipe or round stock bear on the end of the axle. After you have this all set up, tighten the bolts evenly and you have a puller that should get your hub off. Use caution and heavy duty structural tubing, as you will be generating a lot of force. Hope this is not too confusing.

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Nebraska Cowman

05-22-2008 08:36:36

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Re: Wheel and axle in reply to jeffnPA, 05-21-2008 22:41:23

Your idea of driving around with the bolt loose is a good one but it might not work. rust is a powerful glue.

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Dave BN

05-22-2008 00:17:20

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Re: Wheel and axle in reply to jeffnPA, 05-21-2008 22:41:23

I'm not familiar with the I-6 but my first thought is to spray penetrating oil in as many places as I could get to and let it sit for 12 hours and spray it again. Then try the jack and mallet routine on it. Driving it with the bolt slightly loose should be OK too, after the penetrating oil. Dave

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