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Hot coil part 3..

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gn

06-11-2000 20:12:38




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Last week I axed about my coil which gets hot on my 12v 140 (converted to 12v, with ballast resistor in front of the coil). I have not checked the voltage at the points because I wouldn't know what the spec is. Also, is there any way to change the voltage at the points if it is out of spec. Does the gage of the wiring influence this..? Also, the coils I have tried do not leak...thanks for the suggestions in advance..gn

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Bob M

06-12-2000 05:32:18




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 Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to gn, 06-11-2000 20:12:38  
GN - Here's how to determine coil/breaker point voltage:

1 - Connect one voltmeter lead to each of the two primary terminals on the coil.

2 - Pop the distributor cap, then manually rotate the crankshaft and observe the points - stop when the ignition points are closed.

3 - Now turn on the ignition - the voltmeter will read the voltage at the coil.

Assuming you've got a 6 volt coil and ballast resistor, the meter should read somewhere near 6 or 7 volts. If it reads much higher than that, you've got a wrong (too low resistance) ballast resistor installed.

Wire gage does not affect coil voltage unless wire gage is grossly undersized - in which case the wiring itself will get hot.

Hope this helps...

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ltf in nc

06-12-2000 07:17:31




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 Re: Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to Bob M, 06-12-2000 05:32:18  
Bob M,
Do you think this could be an opportunity for the two resistors we discussed recently? I would wager that the voltage is too high. Regards, ltf



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Bob M

06-12-2000 10:03:22




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 Re: Re: Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to ltf in nc, 06-12-2000 07:17:31  
Hey ltf -

I agree! If the coil's getting too hot, it's definitely an overcurrent situation.

Another possible test: Install an accurate ammeter in series with the coil supply, then read the current with the points closed, ign "on" and motor not running. If the ammeter indicates more than about 3 amps (if memory serves me anyway...), the voltage to the coil is too high. Try adding another resistor in series to get the current down to about 3.0 amps.

A quality DVM (like a Fluke 70 or 80 series) is an invaluable tool for diagnosing stuff like this. My toolbox is never without one...

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ltf in nc

06-12-2000 10:25:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to Bob M, 06-12-2000 10:03:22  
Already had one Fluke....was at the local pawn shop and they had a nearly new Fluke 83 priced at $50 (a bargain) and I offered $35 and they took me up. Now I too have a spare.



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DrCyKosis

06-12-2000 21:11:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to ltf in nc, 06-12-2000 10:25:54  
LTFin NC...lost your e mail address. Please e mail me.

Thanx, Cy



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Bob M - whatta deal!

06-12-2000 11:48:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to ltf in nc, 06-12-2000 10:25:54  
$35 for a Fluke 83?!! I paid $120 for my '77 about 10 years ago... (On the other hand it's been worth every penny of it!!)



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JMc Idaho

06-13-2000 08:32:46




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: hot coil part 3.. in reply to Bob M - whatta deal!, 06-12-2000 11:48:51  
I bought a Fluke 36 clamp on ammeter this has an dc application planning on useing this in a industrial application this would also work wouldnt it?



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