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Starter Switch

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Andrew

02-26-2002 01:15:43




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Hi!
I would like to convert my TEA20 back to starting by the gear lever. Does this involve any work in the gearbox or other deep mechanic's of the tractor? I have the old starter switch still on it, but not connected, is it a simple case of connecting some wires or cleaning out the switch? Sorry for taking so long, Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!




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Ray,IN

02-26-2002 08:31:10




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 Re: Starter Switch in reply to Andrew, 02-26-2002 01:15:43  
Hi Andrew, the starter switch is not repairable, new ones are readily available from MF dealer,auto parts stores such as Autopro,NAPA,Carquest etc. Most likely the switch went bad and someone just installed another switch. Mark is correct about the linkage. I think my last switch was <$30 from Carquest. The 20 and 30 Fergies use the same switch, really just an inverted foot button type. Don't overtighten the connections, the studs(square head) will cut through the insulation and short out inside.

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Pete@easttn

02-26-2002 17:17:49




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 Re: Re: Starter Switch in reply to Ray,IN, 02-26-2002 08:31:10  
Ray,
Would you happen to have that part number for the starter switch from carquest, I called them about 3 weeks ago and the young guy on the phone did'nt seem to know what I was talking about.

Thanks: Pete



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Ray,IN

02-26-2002 18:58:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Starter Switch in reply to Pete@easttn, 02-26-2002 17:17:49  
Carquest ignition relay, part number-DR2227P, list price 7/17/99 was $13.36. This is assuming all Carquest stores carry the same inventory. I have a receipt from a big A auto store-now defunct; part number is/was BAS 317-23. NAPA part number is ST26, price $29.52 in 1989. I burned up 2-3 relays before I discovered that using 12V-6 gauge battery cables will not carry adequate current for the 6V system. 6V systems use "0" gauge cables.

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Mark Hendershot

02-26-2002 06:45:55




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 Re: Starter Switch in reply to Andrew, 02-26-2002 01:15:43  
The one I removed to sell from a TO-20 should be the same, and it is a flat rod that is hooked with a pin & carter key to a rod that sticks out of the transmission into the clutch area. If you have problems with just the switch part it unbolts from the outside and part of the linkage is right below it. If the flat rod is off the part sticking out of the transmission you may have to split the engine from the transmission or remove the steering box to get to it to put it back on. Don't drop any parts when you remove the switch they are hard to get back out of the case and you may have to split it anyway to get them. Mark H.

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Phil (VA)

02-27-2002 12:15:20




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 Re: Re: Starter Switch in reply to Mark Hendershot, 02-26-2002 06:45:55  
Or fish them with a magnet. Or leave them in there and get some more.



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Mark Hendershot

02-27-2002 12:29:18




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 Re: Re: Re: Starter Switch in reply to Phil (VA), 02-27-2002 12:15:20  
I read that post about fishing them out. I have droped thing before myself and it seems to just hang up a little and when you reach for it in it goes and roles back out of site. That happend to a ball pivot joint for the clutch fork on a old willys. It had droped to the bottom I thought it would be ok reved it up and that part caused my presser plate to explode and put parts on the roof of my house and past my head. I still had the inspection cover off on the floor. Mark H.

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