More Carb Questions -- Again

2) Here's what's happening, to save a chemistry lesson, these carbs were initially built for leaded gas which we all know what that does. But with out the lead in todays gas and the R.V.P. fluctuations commonly found at the "pump" today, you need to remove the micro enzyme build up that congests the small ports and venturi's found in those old carbs. This brine solution will scour those minute areas clean without the common degradation to carb alloys found in todays tougher hydro carbon products.
Not only is this good for your fergie, but it works on any carb designed for leaded gas. GOOD LUCK! Later Darik

Love in Fergiedom

steve

ps: I just finished my semi restoration, She looks great and runs even better. Its amazing what happens when you "RTFM".

I posted a reply a while ago to someone who was having trouble with their tractor 'popping back' through the carb - mine did that because of a TINY air leak on the carb to inlet manifold gasket - like you I'd tried to re-use the gasket. It is possible that you have a sufficiently large air leak there to - as another poster said - give you an impossibly lean mixture. I would check that gasket and either replace it or use another cut from a cereal packet, plus a dollop of gasket sealer, and do the nuts up tight and true.

If you put a steel ruler across the gasket face on the manifold and the top of the carb, are both faces flat - or are they bowed?? Bowed will cause you problems sealing, but it will look OK.

If your carb is clean and that's all that's changed since it last ran, and your jets are set to the minimum recommended for setting up (3 turns open from fully closed on the main jet at the bottom) then the thing should run.

Did you remove the brass main jet completely from within the carb body? If so, did you do it up tight when you replaced otherwise when you screwed the adjuster in, did the tapers lock, giving you no jet at all, and you're now only only winding a jammed jet assembly in and out?

Are your plugs getting wet with fuel? If so then that's a whole new issue - and it isn't lean!! If they are dry, cheat and pour one teaspoon of fuel down each cylinder, replace the plugs, and see if she'll fire then. If they are wet, put them in a hot oven for 15 minutes (50 degrees C will do fine - but don't go hotter as it gets risky with the fuel already in the bores) and then replace them in the tractor. Using oven gloves is good. Then try to start.

Good luck.

Over and out.

Norm in Ont.

You had mentionned one thing that I took notice saying that your gasket seemed ok to reuse. Do you have a new one? It could be potentially the culprit especially if the bolts are not tightened equally. For hopefully one last time for you, dismantle carb completely again and buy some carb cleaner and let it soak overnight in the solution completely submerged. Then using compressed air, dry it out in all the small holes where orifices were and even use a small pin to poke these holes to ascertain they are free of dirt.
Then you can start assembling in a very clean area making sure that the float is set properly by looking where it ends up when needle is closed. At that point the float should be parallel to the top of carb casing which is the same as if bowl was full of gas. Reassemble remaining components and report back here.

Good Luck my friend.

Norm in Embrun Ont.