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The Split

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Al.

12-26-2002 17:43:40




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I am starting the split to replace the front seal on my TEA 20-85. Is there anything that I should know before starting in IE: wedges on the front axle to stop the side roll. Shop Manual doesn't have much to say about this. Anything would be helpful. I am a mechanic (industrial) not one of the kind for tractors. Thx ahead. Al.




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Jack in NB

12-28-2002 02:53:54




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 Re: The Split in reply to Al., 12-26-2002 17:43:40  
Hi Al -

A hoist of some type, and an engine levelling tool (about $40) are a real safety plus in removing the engine. Gives you complete control of the operation.

Even if you have to rig up an overhead frame because you don't have some rafters to attach to, it's worth the time. If you're using rafters, by the way, run a 4x4 across three or 4 and hang the hoist from that. Hanging the engine from one rafter could pull it down.

There's an article on reassembly for the MF35's and up in the research section to the left - Articles, about 3/4 way down under the Maintenance and Mechanics section, which might help a bit. Covers the dual clutch units, but yours is not too different. Nearly the same size and weight, same potential to nail your fingers and toes, and punch out the clutch!

Good luck.

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Al

12-28-2002 09:02:47




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 Re: Re: The Split in reply to Jack in NB, 12-28-2002 02:53:54  
Thx. Jack in NB

Made up a frame that fits tight on oil pan toward the rear next to flywheel flange, simular to a automatic trans holding frame. It has a spigot to fit in where the floor jack rotation plate normally sits. I will still wedge the front axle frame so as to prevent lateral and axial movement. Looks like it will work well. I will be able to pull apart and move engine and wheel assembly far enough to get into the seals. Thx. for the info, all is welcome.

Al.

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Dennis in MA

12-27-2002 13:20:16




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 Re: The Split in reply to Al., 12-26-2002 17:43:40  
AS long as you are doing the split, why not replace the rear engine seal ? It might save you a lot of trouble 6 weeks or six months from now. It's cheap insurance.



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DONNY

12-27-2002 21:23:31




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 Re: Re: The Split in reply to Dennis in MA, 12-27-2002 13:20:16  
DONT BE DUMB, THERE IS ONLY ABOUT 5 BOLTS IN SPLITTING THIS TRACTOR, IT IS VERY VERY HARD TO MESS SOMETHING UP, JUST BLOCK IT UP OR YOU WILL HAVE VERY VERY SERIOUS PROBLEMS WITH A BUSTED BELL HOUSING AND A CRACKED BLOCK, THAT IS ONLY IF THE BLOCK IS NOT ALREADY CRACKED, WHICH IT PROBABLY IS, OR WAS AT SOME TIME, BUY A DEERE IT WILL SUIT YOU GOOD



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Ernie(Wa)

12-27-2002 10:41:17




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 Re: The Split in reply to Al., 12-26-2002 17:43:40  
Al ++ Go to "Site Search", type in "splitting tractor" and you will get a wealth of answers to your question. Happy & safe wrenching. Ernie(Wa)



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Al

12-26-2002 20:02:52




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 Re: The Split in reply to Al., 12-26-2002 17:43:40  
Further to last posting. I mean the front seal on the trans.

Al.



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Jim W

12-27-2002 05:37:16




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 Re: Re: The Split in reply to Al, 12-26-2002 20:02:52  
I recently split my 20-85 and used a regular shop crane to lift away the engine (with the front axle removed). It worked pretty well. I had a big round of firewood that fit nicely under the transmission to keep it propped up.
But don't discount the possibility that it's the real seal on the engine; they do tend to go.
Jim



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Al

12-27-2002 07:50:50




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 Re: Re: Re: The Split in reply to Jim W, 12-27-2002 05:37:16  
Thx for the comeback.
At this point I don't suspect the Rear seal on the engine, but will check. The engine oil level has not changed. When I flushed the Trans-Rear Diff because of water contamination, my flushing oil ran out as fast as I put it in when I hit the top level, this make me suspect of the front seal on the Trans. Question is still. Can I wedge the front wheels so the engine axle assembly won't try to rotate when I part the flywheel and the trans housing. I will then put my floor jack in from the front and lift engine, then pull forward with the transmission supported with jack stands. Any help would be appreciated.

Thx in advance Al.

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Jim W

12-28-2002 07:50:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: The Split in reply to Al, 12-27-2002 07:50:50  
I have heard of wedging the front axle as your propose; it seems like it should work although personally I'd be nervous, since nearly all the weight is above the front axle pivot point.
Note that once you remove the radius rods, the axle can move front <-> rear along the axle pivot pin, so be sure to wedge it after they're off. Jim



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Rusty

12-27-2002 08:46:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: The Split in reply to Al, 12-27-2002 07:50:50  
Sounds like the wedge thing may work. I used a hoist.



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