TEA20 starting problem

Appreciate your response.

Engines need three things at the right time to work, fuel, spark, and air, so step by step:-

1 Do your plugs get wet after trying to start the tractor? If so, that's good 'cos fuel is at least getting to the right place.

If not, check fuel lines for blockages and flow, check there is nothing obstructing the manifold.

2 Is it nice fresh fuel in there?

3 Are you trying to start on gasoline, or paraffin by accident?

4 Are the plugs wired up in the correct firing order (1,3,4,2 for a Standard engine - is it the same for a Continental?)

5 Is plug #1 wire on the correct position on the distributor cap i.e. number one cylinder TDC on compression stroke?

6 Have you got the wire for plug #1 on plug #1 at the front of the engine?.

7 Is your air filter clean, with the correct amount of oil in the bottom? too little oil will make the mixture weak (even on full choke) and they can be a beggar to start.

Well, it's some stuff to check for a start, anyway.

All of your seven points were checked. Every thing OK with exception of gas on plugs, no moisture is evident. I'm going to pull carb off and check manifold for obstruction.
Checked carb drain plug and gas drips out when valve is opened slightly. I just assumed carb was OK since it was just re-built. Mechanic who re-built carb wants me to bring tractor in but he's to far away(80 miles one way).
Thanks for your help!

You should get a continuous stream of gas - anything less and you need then to:-

1 Disconnect the fuel line at the carb, and see how much flow you get (is it the carb that's the problem in other words)

2 If poor flow, check rest of fuel line, filters in bowl, and fuel taps.

3 If good flow, check float valve in the top of the carb for partial blockage.

In all flow tests, let the gas run for two minutes minimum - you needs good flow for that time to be sure.

Manifold should be a last resort check - if it was only the carb that was rebuilt, and you refitted it, there is no reason why the manifold should be blocked, right?

When you reassemble the carb to the manifold, use a good smear of gasket sealer and two gaskets if you got 'em (or use a cereal packet to make another one) - these engines do not like sucking in extra air at that joint - it will totally louse up your carburation and can also stop it from starting.

I put some gasket sealant on connection between manifold and carb. re-tightened and tried to start. Still didn't start so checked spark plug. No evidence of gas, plug was dry. I get steady stream of gas from drain on carb. Also, there is gas evident at the choke.
What do I do now? Carburetor is made by Zenith.

Thanks for additional suggestions, just got back into town so will check out carb and let you know.

Happened to talk with mechanic who has experienced some problems with Zenith carb.'s. He was encouraged to just replace carb with new one because Zenith carb re-bilt kits can't fix apparent warping with float. Not ready to go that route yet. Apparently the Zenith carb for TEA 20 are very hard to find.

But thanks - it's only simple fault finding stuff though.

Thanks for the tips.