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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Tea-20 liner removal

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Morty-Alberta

09-22-2004 08:41:47




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well as summer is gone I finally have time to address my dead fergie, I have to pull the liners as the seals underneath are u/s but I don't have the space to pull the engine off. How do I remove them ? the manual indicates to use special tool # something- probably made of unobtainium. Can I undo the big ends, push the pistons out the top and then using a suitable chunk of hardwood and a large slammer whack them upwards ? If it makes any difference they are the original 80mm liners I will probably re-use them as I have little budget for new ones, thanks

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Bill In Markham

09-26-2004 03:51:23




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
Morty Did you sand blast the Fergie....it looks pretty clean.....



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Mr Chapp

09-24-2004 18:56:37




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
Morty... Budget or not, you'll be much happier with new liners and pistons. The trctor will be happier too. If I remember from my Triumph race car days, a set is a shade over $250.00 U.S. Don't know what it is for a standard bore tractor, but I'd check the options. P.S. Remember it's a wet sleeve engine and if you're under it when the 1st sleeve comes out you'll be drenched with coolant. Good luck, have fun!!

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Jim W

09-25-2004 07:50:24




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Mr Chapp, 09-24-2004 18:56:37  
Mr. Chapp,
They've been creeping up in price. I think presently the best deal is from British Parts Northwest and they're more like $450 a set now.
Jim



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gshadel

09-23-2004 09:25:32




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
What I'm about to say works for a Continental engine, but it sounds like it will work on your Standard engine too.
I have used the hammer and wood approach. I have also used the puller approach. Both work, but I'm here to tell you, the puller makes for a lot easier, more fun, job. You can literally pull all 4 sleeves while sipping on a beer! I tried using a 3# slide hammer from the top before, wasn't working for me. Tried jacking the sleeves out from the bottom using a floor jack, didn't work for me either, just lifted the whole tractor front end off the ground.

I made a puller from a piece of 3" pipe to sit over the sleeve and threaded rod thru a piece of 3/16" steel plate on top the pipe, and on the bottom of the sleeve, with a nut on each end. The plate for the bottom can be oval cut, like one of the other posts, or cut round to about the same OD as the sleeve and slid in place past the crank. I don't have a way to machine a lip on the bottom plate to keep it centered in the sleeve, I cut a metal strip from steel plate and ground the edges to fit the I.D. of the sleeve and epoxied that strip onto the bottom plate give it a "lip" to keep the bottom plate in place. Tighten the nut, pull the sleeve right out. Worked like a charm. I saved my contraption for my "next" project tractor. If you try the pipe idea, make sure the pipe is cut square on the ends and sanded smooth so you don't damage the block.

Good luck!

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cdmn

09-22-2004 20:28:26




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
Look up Owatonna Tool company and see what a sleeve puller looks like. Maybe you can make up something like it. The set I used had a variety of oval "spools" that slide down inside the sleeve, then tip to 90 degrees. They have a step machined at the 80mm dia and an outside diameter about 1/4 inch larger (smaller than the sleeve OD)The center of this spool has a fine threaded rod that goes to a bridge on top of the block. Turning a nut will pull the sleeve up a short distance until the seals are out of their bore.

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Jim W

09-22-2004 19:54:55




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
third party image

Yes, I have used the chunk of hardwood and a hammer approach and it works well. The difficult part may be keeping everything clean. When the liners come out it it is necessary to clean very well the seat for the new gaskets. Also, there is much sludge and crud around the liners, and all that junk will be falling down on your crank. It really would be much better to remove the engine. How do I know? I got to tear my engine down _again_, right after rebuilding it, all because a chunk of dirt was trapped between a bearing and the crank. Lots of fun, splitting the tractor a second time to deal with that. I was so happy to get to practice rebuilding that motor another time...
Take note of the orientation of the liners; you can install them 90 degrees from their original position and get some more wear out of them.
I have a bit of information about this on my website.
Jim

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James, UK

09-22-2004 12:36:28




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
Morty, I had to check in my manual to confirm but yes, the big ends will pass thro the bores on the 80mm Standard engine.

You cannot withdraw the pistons downwards as the piston will foul on the crankshaft.

To add to what the others have said, you can also try using a commercial plumbing pipe freezing kit (fun if hired) to freeze the liners before trying to extract em or fit em back in.

Service tool FT 1 to remove the sleeves can be cheaply made from chunks of old RSJ and some high tensile steel bolts, a wrecking bar and some patience.

HTH.

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rod s

09-22-2004 10:03:41




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to Morty-Alberta, 09-22-2004 08:41:47  
if you are going to reuse them why take them out at all?? I have seen liner drivers made up also have heard of using ice packed in the bore to loosen them and also putting them in freezer to reinstall the liners.
regards
rod



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Morty-Alberta

09-22-2004 11:46:44




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 Re: Tea-20 liner removal in reply to rod s, 09-22-2004 10:03:41  
The lower seals under the liners are leaking so I have to replace them, such a bunch of work for a ten dollar gasket



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