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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TO-30 won't start

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Schnell

10-25-2004 08:07:02




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I"ve had my TO-30 for about a year. When purchased it had been converted to 12-volts, started and ran beautifully. Over the past 3-4 months it had run rougher and rougher, but always started up without a problem. Over the past few months I have cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor, replaced and regapped the plugs,and adjusted the distributor, and that has helped clean up the roughness, although not completely. Still misses a bit. Two days ago I drove the tractor pretty hard for about 2 hours, turned it off for about 30 minutes, then tried to start it. It cranked and cranked, but wouldn"t start. Finally it started, but it took a lot of cranking. The following day, same thing happened. Today, I can"t get it started at all. Again, it has started fine for nearly a year! A few other observations: The ammeter has always shown "0" during normal operation, however has alway periodically (and randomly) spiked to 30+ and held there for several minutes before slowly coming down to 0. Now, when I do actually get it started (which is rare) the ammeter pegs to 30+ and stays there during operation. This seems bad to me, so the tractor is parked until I get this figured out. Nothing electrical has been replaced nor adjusted except what I mentioned above. I checked the distributor for moisture, and it's dry as a bone (in fact a bit dustly - I cleaned it out). Any sugestions?

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Mr Chapp

10-26-2004 05:06:59




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 Re: TO-30 won't start in reply to Schnell, 10-25-2004 08:07:02  
Hi Schnell...Since you did'nt mention it, I would start with a point and condenser replacement and re-set the timing, since re-setting the dist. helped at one time. 30amps is a lot under normal circumstances, but if you're having to crank for a long time you are discharging the battery, thus the extra amperage to try to recharge. I don't think there is any corelation between the amps and the no start. My 2 cents worth. Good luck, have fun!!

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Jerry/MT

10-25-2004 22:06:26




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 Re: TO-30 won't start in reply to Schnell, 10-25-2004 08:07:02  
Rough running can becaused by a worn distributor bushing and shaft. To check for this, crank the engine over until the points are closed. Shut off the ignition, remove the cap, rotor, and dust cover. Grasp the distributor shaft and see if you can move it radially causing the points to open. If you can,the distributor needs to be rebuilt. Also check to make sure that all your ignition connections from the key switch to the distributor are "bright and tight". check your timing and make sure that the advance mechanism is working.
With 12V conversions, you need to know whether you have a 12 v coil with internal resistance. If you do, your coil should be OK. If you have a 6 volt coil you need an external resistor to drop the voltage to 4.5-5.5 volts at the coil. Look at the coil to see if is a 12 V or a 6 V. if its a 6 V, trace the wire back toward the key switch and look for a resistor in series with the wire. If you don't have a resistor on a 6V coil with a 12 V system you can overheat or damage the coil. If your ignition systems checks out OK and you have a nice fat blue spark., i guess you'll have to make sure that your fuel system is OK.

There appears to be some problem with your voltage regulator on your alternator/generator that is causing your charging problem.

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gshadel

10-25-2004 10:22:36




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 Re: TO-30 won't start in reply to Schnell, 10-25-2004 08:07:02  
Schnell,
On the hard starting, make sure you are closing your fuel shutoff under the gas tank when not in use. I've had nothing but trouble with these new rebuild kits with the rubber tipped needle valves. They don't stop the gas 100% and flood the carb, making it really hard to start. Make sure your shutoff is indeed stopping the fuel flow too. You can pull the plug on the bottom of the carb. to check your shut-off.
Pull a spark plug and check your spark, should have a nice blue zap. If it is weak, or dead, you can trouble shoot your points, condenser, coil, & switch to see if they are burned-up. Burned points may be a sign of a bad condenser. If the 12V conversion was done poorly, it can shorten the life of your coil. Your amp guage - I don't know much about 12V conversions, sounds like you have an alternator problem, or if you have a 12V generator, a V. regulator problem. Good luck!

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danct

10-25-2004 09:02:00




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 Re: TO-30 won't start in reply to Schnell, 10-25-2004 08:07:02  
schnell
your alternator seems to have an internal regulator problem,the 30 amps is way too hot and possibly burned out you ignition switch or coil,get your digital meter out and test for continuity through the ignition switch and check for voltage at the side of the coil that goes to the distrubitor, you have to disconnect the output of the alternator first and work off the battery to isolate the problem which i think was caused by a bad alternator keep us informed
Danny

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Schnell

10-26-2004 14:44:32




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 Re: TO-30 won't start in reply to danct, 10-25-2004 09:02:00  
Danny - Thanks for suggestion. I did as you suggested and only got about 1 volt to read on my meter (if that) at the distributor side of the coil. Should I assume that means a burned out coil? I checked the battery as well, and there is plenty of voltage there. In fact, when I was disconnecting the output from the alternator I accidentally touched the side of my wrench to the alternator housing while loosening the output nut. POW! Lots of sparks! Does that make sense? The coil itself looks very old, possibly original(?). Do coils just "go bad" eventually, or is it more likely that the alternator is still the culprit? Could a coil going bad cause the wild spikes on my amp guage, and the guage to eventually peg to 30+ all the time once the coil failed altogether? I"m virtually certain the alternator was new when installed last year. Can they come from the factory defective? Is there any way of checking whether the alternator is bad before replacing it? I"m not a mechanic, but am willing to try anything with a little instruction. Thanks! Mike

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danct

10-26-2004 17:33:27




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 Re: TO-30 won't start in reply to Schnell, 10-26-2004 14:44:32  
mike your best bet is take the alternator off and take it to a shop that tests starters ,generators and alternators ,they can test it for you ,now back to the problem test for 12volts leaving the ignition switch going to the coil, make sure there is no resister in that wire ,that would mean that someone left the 6volt original coil in place ,the coil could be defective as its only made up of two internal coils of wire ,see what you are getting good voltage into the coil and let us know ,then if good voltage pull a spark plug wire and look for good blue spark when someone cranks the tractor,also as someone suggested you could change the condenser inside the distrubitor first as its cheap.
you are learning a good lesson here and very soon you will be able to help someone too,
dont give up let us know you progress
Danny

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