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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Ferguson TE20 electrical problems

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Darin

12-18-2004 16:39:24




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Ok, this is going to be long, but I want to provide all of the facts.

I have a Ferguson TE20 that I purchased from someone I now know to be an incompetent yutz.

I know the mechanic who at one time rebuilt this tractor and also had to come in to splice the wiring back together when the previous owner decided he was a mechanic.

The other day, I couldn't get the tractor to start and determined that I was getting no spark.

Since all of the wires were pretty shabby, I decided to replace them (one at a time so that I know that I put them back exactly as they were) to include all wires from the ignition switch to the solenoid (which is a Ford solenoid, by the way) and from the solenoid to the resistor and resistor to the coil. I also replaced the battery cables for good measure. Now, this tractor has been switched from 6V to 12V negative ground somewhere in the past, so you know.

Well, once all wires were replaced, I still had no spark and used my electrical tester to figure out that the resistor was bad. To confirm, I bypassed the resistor and it started right up. This leads to question 1 of many: how bad is it to bypass the resistor?

Then I had to use it to drive to the barn for a load of firewood or freeze to death. I drove it down and it ran like a champ all the way, but when I cut it off, the copper wire that the previous owner used to tether the key to the tractor with started sparking and it melted the insulation off of the wire from the ignition switch to the positive side of the solenoid. It only did this once the switch was turne off. I pulled the key out and removed the wire, started it back up and drove up to the house without a hitch. I then replaced that wire and am making sure that the key is not grounded, but I can't for the life of me figure out why it would do that.

My other questions are:

Is this a bad ignition switch?

Could it be that the tractor should still be a positive ground?

Does anyone know where I can get the appropriate solenoid for a 12V system and also a new resistor, if in fact it is a necessary component? I assume it is because manufacturers don't usually put something on unless they determine it is needed.

I have checked the online catalog here and also my Draper Tractor catalog and turned up nothing.

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Jim W

12-19-2004 08:34:55




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 Re: Ferguson TE20 electrical problems in reply to Darin, 12-18-2004 16:39:24  
These tractors had no resistor to start with.
They had no solenoid either, unless you are talking about the mechanical switch on top of the bell housing that is operated by the gear shift lever.
The resistor may be there to deal with a 12 volt system running a 6 volt coil. That's fine, just replace the resistor with a generic one from an auto parts store - or you could replace the coil with a 12 volt one. Ask them for one from a Chrysler if they can't cope with the concept of generic. Bypassing the resistor won't likely harm the coil in the short term but in theory the primary side will overheat and eventually burn out if you run it this way for too long. I don't know how long.
I would gut it and rewire, or you may be chasing problems like this forever; it's not too complex and wiring diagrams are available on the web.
Positive vs. negative ground - doesn't much matter, just keep track of what you're doing as you go. I like negative ground just in case someone comes along with booster cables who doesn't know what they are doing. You need to polarize the generator to switch polarities - easy but do you even still have a generator or has it been switched to an alternator now?
On the ignition switch - my bet would be that the problem is not the switch but old corroded connections. You need to get those all cleaned up before you can do any troubleshooting; they will throw you off as their behaviour can be intermittent.
Jim

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J. Schwiebert

12-19-2004 14:34:50




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 Re: Ferguson TE20 electrical problems in reply to Jim W, 12-19-2004 08:34:55  
On the positive or negative ground> If you have a standard automotive alternator it will need to be negative ground. Also on the coil, the engine will run either way but, it takes more juice to fire the coil if is hooked up backwards. The wire that goes between the coil and distributor must be hooked to the terminaal that has the same polarity as the ground on the system. Questions?



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