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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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lights

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norm wampler

01-17-2005 09:18:44




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does anybody have any suggestions on getting my lights to work on my to-20? do i need to run a ground to the light or is the light grounded to the tractor already? i have different positions on my ignition switch, do these control the lights? let me know if you can help, thanks




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Mr Chapp

01-18-2005 10:01:00




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 Re: lights in reply to norm wampler, 01-17-2005 09:18:44  
Norm...just a point to ponder...the hood ground has a poor chance, at best, since it is hinged and, if like mine, there is a great deal of looseness at the hinge portion, as well as corrosion. I ran a ground wire from a point on the engine to the hood and it worked well. Good luck, have fun!!! Mike



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Jeff-oh

01-18-2005 05:32:03




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 Re: lights in reply to norm wampler, 01-17-2005 09:18:44  
Norm, I just got the lights on my TE working last fall. I had to run a grounding wire. For the front lights I ran the ground to a small bolt in the frame under the radiator on the left side. This bolt was near were the power wire came out. That point for me was convienent and unobtrusive. For the rear lights I had to run the ground all the way forward and tied into the engine mount bolt just aft of the starter (this is where my battery ground was any way.

To test spots, use a wire and test different points. If it lights up you can use that point to ground.

Jeff

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ferg 30

01-21-2005 18:44:59




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 Re: lights in reply to Jeff-oh, 01-18-2005 05:32:03  
oen way to fix is drill boles run ground from bulb this works aeal good



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danct

01-17-2005 12:12:38




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 Re: lights in reply to norm wampler, 01-17-2005 09:18:44  
,norm
your tractor body is supposed to be the ground for the lights.sometimes paint or rust form an insulator so the lamp circuit cant return to ground ,the best thing to use is a test lite or a meter,using the Neg side of the battery as one side of your tester(if you are still 6volt and if that is the side that goes towards the starter) ,go point to point starting where the Pos cable connects to the dash ,remember you have to be on bare metal to get continuity
second part of your question about the switch supplieng the lights off a spare contact .You can do that but make sure you have an in line fuse in the circuit towards the lights ,that way if you have a bare wire or you pinch the light feed it will blow and you will know there is a short sorry about the long answer,it is really a simple circuit though
good luck
Danny

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danct

01-17-2005 12:12:25




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 Re: lights in reply to norm wampler, 01-17-2005 09:18:44  
,norm
your tractor body is supposed to be the ground for the lights.sometimes paint or rust form an insulator so the lamp circuit cant return to ground ,the best thing to use is a test lite or a meter,using the Neg side of the battery as one side of your tester(if you are still 6volt and if that is the side that goes towards the starter) ,go point to point starting where the Pos cable connects to the dash ,remember you have to be on bare metal to get continuity
second part of your question about the switch supplieng the lights off a spare contact .You can do that but make sure you have an in line fuse in the circuit towards the lights ,that way if you have a bare wire or you pinch the light feed it will blow and you will know there is a short sorry about the long answer,it is really a simple circuit though
good luck
Danny

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phil Fenner

01-17-2005 12:01:47




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 Re: lights in reply to norm wampler, 01-17-2005 09:18:44  
Norm, the original light configuration for your tractor required a separate light switch in the dash just left of the ammeter. A fuse was integral with the switch. If some one installed an ignition switch with multiple positions, it could be a switch for a 30 for example where the lights were switched on with ignition switch. You will have to check this out with a volt meter and see what you have on the switch positions. It may work for you. If this is the case please install an inline fuse for protection.

As far as grounds go, the tractor itself was used as the return,but in many cases rust or poor connections have made the grounding system poor or inoperative. Some people run a separate ground wire when this situation occurs, but I preferr to make it work as intended . This will take a little elbow grease probably to make sure all the interfacing metal parts are well connected.
Hope this hope this helps.

Phil(WA)

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