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TO35 buying advice

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Belleville Neil

01-18-2005 20:39:40

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I'm going to look at a TO 35 to replace my sick TEA 20. Is there anything I should be careful of with this tractor? Seller advises that the carb leaks gas - he thinks it is a gasket problem. I just read another post about a cracked block - is that a concern in the bigger "Z" engines? Your advice could save me more headaches! Thanks, Neil. PS Is the PTO shaft the same size as my TEA 20?

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Jerry/MT

01-21-2005 11:00:21

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Belleville Neil, 01-18-2005 20:39:40

I'm not all that familiar with the Z134 block that's in the TO-35, but any tractor can have a cracked head or block if it wasn't maintained and operated properly. Pay really close attention to the coolant, looking for oil in the radiator or bubbles when it is running. Play close attention to the crankcase oil, looking for signs of water. Make sure that you run it and drive it sufficiently to get it heated up. Make sure that it has a thermostat in it and a pressure radiator cap. that's aboout all I can think of at the moment regarding the engine. the other guys have given you some good tips about the rest of the systems.

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phil(va)

01-19-2005 10:00:07

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Belleville Neil, 01-18-2005 20:39:40

Is it a Deluxe or a Special? If Deluxe, make sure the two stage clutch works properly. First stage should stop the tractor and second stage (all the way depressed) should stop the PTO. If the tractormeter doesn't work, check that it still has a generator with the fitting for the cable on the back. If it has been converted to an alternator, probably you can't get a cable to fit and you won't have a working tractormeter no matter what you do (unless you find a used generator that works). They can be 12 volt and still have a generator.

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Ed in MD

01-19-2005 09:38:25

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Belleville Neil, 01-18-2005 20:39:40

I just rebuilt the Marvel-Schebler carb on my TO35. It was leaking very badly. The rebuild kit was around $28 US and I also had to replace the float due to it having leaked, another $21 US. The float would longer FLOAT and so gas was coming into the bowl out of control. The rebuild was straight fowrard and was done in about an hour including letting the new paint to dry. The float adjustment per the manual was 1/4" but it was to little and I was still flooding the float bowl. I ended up with around 3/8" adjust on the float and it works great. It was a very simple rebuild and for less than $50, New carb would be $250 to $280.

The Z134 engine came with one of three carbs from what I undersatand. Marvel Schebler, Carter or Zenith. The Carter Carb from what I hear is next to impossible to get parts for so if thats what you have just buy a new or rebuilt Marvel Schebler.

As far as gotcha's look under the transmission. There will be a drain hole with a bent over cotter pin in it. If there is fluid dripping out be prepared to split the tractor to replace tranny seals. It is usualy a little damp but if your watching it actually drip out the seals are shot. It is probably one of the biggest jobs to due but not impossible. If you find that is the case you should negotiate a really good purchase price due to the time and expense to correct it.

Hope this is of help.

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Ed in MD

01-19-2005 09:49:51

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Ed in MD, 01-19-2005 09:38:25

I just looked on this site in the parts section and they do have a Carter rebuild kit but I didn't see a float for it. Replacment carbs on this site where priced good also, running $180 to $200 depending on model.

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John (UK)

01-19-2005 09:07:31

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Belleville Neil, 01-18-2005 20:39:40

PTO is 1 1/8" on a TEA and 1 3/8" on TO35

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Gregg/Oh

01-19-2005 19:28:31

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to John (UK), 01-19-2005 09:07:31

I have a 1959 TO-35 Gas, I am very peticular about my Machines (Tractor included) My Tractor has the Marvel Schebler carb. I have carefully rebuilt the carb twice,and upon shutdown I make it a habit to close the fuel shutoff,because after about 2 hours the carb does leak fuel. I would not worry (not buy the tractor just because it leaks from carb)about buying a tractor with this small problem.

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Ed in MD

01-20-2005 14:43:14

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Gregg/Oh, 01-19-2005 19:28:31

Gregg, Try adjusting your float arm. I just rebuilt my Marvel Schebler and it also leaked afterward. I found that the 1/4" measurment for seting the float arm wasn't shutting the fuel off before the float bowl over filled. I ended up with a measurment of around 3/8" and now it works execellent with no leaks. But like you I still shut my fuel off when the tractor is not in use.

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Gregg/Ohio

01-20-2005 20:04:56

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Ed in MD, 01-20-2005 14:43:14

Thanks Ed! After it warms to decent temp. here I will go out to the barn and Remove carb to try what you said, Thanks! Gregg M.

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Norm in Ont

01-21-2005 21:48:39

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Gregg/Ohio, 01-20-2005 20:04:56

Hi Gents, I too have a '58 TO 35 and replaced the carb kit (MS) 2 yrs ago. One thing that most are not aware of, hence have to use the shut off valve for extended shut off period, is the new kits main needle is slighly bigger than original hence a slight drip afterwards even if float is adjusted properly. So when you put a new kit check your old needle closely for proper seating and keep it instead of replacing it.

This info came from a local long time Ferguson dealer where mine originally came from.

Good Luck

Norm

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Ed in MD

01-22-2005 08:59:10

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Re: TO35 buying advice in reply to Norm in Ont, 01-21-2005 21:48:39

I thought of that myself so I actually used a dab of polishing compound and lapped the new needle valve to ensure it seated properly just like you would an lap intake or exhaust valve with valve grinding compound. I chose to use polishing compound due to how soft these needles are.

My problem though, was definately a float adjust problem. I had fuel pooling up in the air intake line and a lot of it. So I split the carb and didn't drian the float bowl and it was way to full. I bent the float arm to give me an extra 1/8" and walla it works perfectly now. No drips, No leaks even after leaving the fuel on for a week. I do normally still shut the fuel off though.

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